92' Ford Ranger XLT: leaking rear axle seals

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Old 02-25-17, 09:56 AM
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92' Ford Ranger XLT: leaking rear axle seals

I have the 92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and touch drive 4WD

As briefly discussed on another thread, I was going to work on the rear drum brakes and I discovered the wheel bearing seal is leaking gear oil into the drum brakes.

I was well advised to delay drum brake work till the bearings and seals are replaced on both rear wheels. On my make/model, manual says I have to remove pinion shaft lock bolt, pinion shaft, and axle C-lock.

1. Is there an easy way to determine axle gear ratio? The procedure is a little different for 3:73:1 and 4:10:1 gear ratios.

2. Do I need to buy the special tools mentioned in manual for both bearing/seal removal and replacement? Or are other existing tool box items normally improvised?

3. With those rear axle gadgets removed, do I simply pull the axle out of the tube by grabbing the wheel studs?

4. Could there be damage to the axle tube or axle shaft?
 
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Old 02-25-17, 11:23 AM
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Turn drive shaft by hand, Mark driveshaft. so you have a reference. jack car so one rear wheel is still on ground. turn wheel by hand and count how many times driveshaft turns over 4 you 4.01. I never did thatas not necessary. After you take pumpkin cover off you will find a bolt in spider case. Take bolt out and shaft will come out. I always pull shaft just far enough to push axle in to remove c clip. after clip and axle is out of way push shaft in. You do not want to drop gears out. Axle will pull out. I use axle to pop seal out Pull all the way out and just use end to pry seal out. Some people put the same permetex as you will use to seal pumpkin but not necessary. If you do do not get on seal surface. Use something flat to hammer seal in. Do not hammer directly on seal you might bend it. Reinstall everything.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 12:01 PM
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Disregard, I see that these aren't pressed bearings.
 

Last edited by Ron53; 02-25-17 at 01:01 PM.
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Old 02-25-17, 12:02 PM
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If there is a question as to what is leaking - post a pic so we can see.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 12:30 PM
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It's not brake fluid from the wheel cylinder. I can tell it's gear oil by the leak location, smell and thickness.

..............pressing IIRC axle bearings on and off at a shop? Are you talking about something else?


So when I remove those three pieces of hardware from the rear axle housing, this will unlock axle shafts on both wheels?

When I remove both axles, what holds up the gears in the rear axle housing?
 
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Old 02-25-17, 12:47 PM
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As I said you only pull the pin out enough to push in the axles. Pin will stay engaged in one gear holding gears in place. Takes longer telling how to do than doing,
 
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Old 02-25-17, 01:19 PM
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My manual shows two slightly differing instruction versions depending on gear ratio: one picture shows the pinion shaft completely removed and the other says 'push out the pinion shaft until it contacts the ring gear.

I'll do some reading to get a better understanding of this.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 01:25 PM
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You could have kept this in the same thread.

There will be a metal ID tag on one of the rear cover bolts. The ratio is on it.
I think you can change the seal without messing with the bearing.

You can use shellac (Indian Head) on the seal if desired. Many seals come with something like a paint on them.

I use LARGE sockets to hammer seals back in. I even have some screw off safety covers from oxy/acetylene tanks that fit perfectly. You must hit the seal straight on or it will distort.

No special tools needed for seal removal. A hammer, a sharp wood chisel or thin screwdriver, big pair of channel locks always comes in handy. As was mentioned.... as you pull the axle out, even if you pull it all the way out, put it in slightly.... as it comes to the end hold it on an angle and use the end of the axle where it attached to the rear to grab the seal. Rip the seal out. It can be bent or damaged... it's garbage.

I wouldn't worry about damaging axle unless you drop it.

Remove everything from cover and differential. It must be clean dry metal. I use lighter fluid to remove all traces of silicone and grease. If it's not clean the replacement silicone will not stick and seal properly.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 02-25-17 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 02-25-17, 02:10 PM
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These are the numbers I got from the rear axle cover metal tag. But I wouldn't know which one is the gear ratio.

S313F

4L1075

1G23

Referring to the italicized section below..................you're saying if you pull the axle shaft completely out of the tube, leave the pinion shaft part of the way in to hold gears in place?

As was mentioned.... as you pull the axle out, even if you pull it all the way out, put it in slightly
 
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Old 02-25-17, 02:44 PM
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4L1075 = 4.10 limited slip and 7.5" ring gear. You need limited slip additive when replacing the lube..... or synthetic.

1G23 = production 23rd week of 1991.

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No.... the axle must be removed completely from the tube for seal replacement.
As you get most of axle out there will be a groove cut in it where the clip holds it. Use that groove to snag the seal and pull it out.

If there is no groove..... use the end of the axle as a pry bar and hook the seal out.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 02:54 PM
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Yes. I came to the same conclusion from a reference chart online. I matched door jam sticker AXL code F7 to rear cover metal tag 4L1075 for 4.10. And this gear ratio version calls for the pinion shaft to be pulled part of the way out till it contacts ring gear.

Should I leave one axle shaft in as I work on the other side?

Do I need an assistant to view open rear while I am working axle shaft? Or can I just go back and forth?
 
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Old 02-25-17, 03:09 PM
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Do one at a time. The pin I was talking about is what holds gears in and stops the axle from sliding in to far so the c clip doesn't fall out. When you get cover off you will see what we are talking about. There are 2 different pins one screws in the carrier and holds the pin that holds gears in. One thing to be careful of. If the pin that goes into carrier is broken put it back together and take it to a shop This is not a DIY job. The way to tell it is broken is there are threads close to nut head and than a 1 to 2 inch shaft that goes through gear pin. Not a very common problem but have run into it.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 03:26 PM
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Yes. You're referring to pinion lock bolt and pinion shaft.. Chilton manual has some photos. I'll check that pin for damage also like you said

I think I am on the same page with everyone now. I should have enough info to start this task.

I was wondering if this is a two man job...............................one to work Pins and C-lock while other removes or installs axle shaft
 
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Old 02-25-17, 03:52 PM
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Of course it's a two man job. Someone has to hold the beers and bring the snacks.
 
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Old 02-25-17, 04:04 PM
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So I can do this myself then..................................as long as someone is standing by with beer and snacks?
 
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Old 02-26-17, 11:02 AM
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I'll have to see about doing this next weekend. This weekend is shot anyway and the parts store had to order the seals.

I know the axle bearings were replaced 3.5 years ago. Would it be worth the trouble to pull the bearings, inspect, and re-install if still in good condition?

I'm having a little trouble finding axle bearing removal and install tool at auto parts store.
 
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Old 02-26-17, 11:57 AM
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I wouldn't worry about the bearings. They very rarely go bad. At 3.5 years they should be fine.

Seals are another thing. I've had replacements last a long time and I've had them fail quickly. I just get them at my local auto parts store. They only appear to have one line of seals so I'm not sure if there are better lines or brands.
 
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Old 02-26-17, 12:09 PM
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I wanted to get the better brand seal which should be available in store this afternoon.

Is there just one C-Clip for both shafts in the axle housing?
 
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Old 02-26-17, 02:34 PM
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2 C CLIPS 1 per axle.........................
 
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Old 02-26-17, 03:24 PM
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Got it. I'm probably going to order new C-locks and pinion shaft lock bolt.

This is an important question I didn't think to ask before. You know the part when I rotate the drive shaft to bring the carrier into view so I can work on the bolt, shaft, and C-clips?

Will ONE fixed position allow me to remove the pieces of axle hardware so I don't have to rotate gear or shaft each time I remove a piece of hardware?

I absolutely want to avoid dropping or misaligning spider gears.
 
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Old 02-26-17, 06:05 PM
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C clips never ware out. bolt it good is your choice, but I have never put a new one in.. Yes you can turn the cage with gears. I loosen bolt and pull shaft out a little and push it it the pumpkin case. It will hold it there till you get axle out. I than push shaft back in to hold gears and rotate it into the pumpkin . Can't fall out than.
 
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Old 02-26-17, 06:56 PM
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Cool. I'm thankful to hear from people who have experience with this.

What I've learned so far is all burned into my memory by now
 
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Old 02-28-17, 08:30 AM
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Will the previous repair shop have used thread locker on the pinion shaft lock bolt?
 
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Old 02-28-17, 08:37 AM
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Left my crystal ball at home.
 
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Old 02-28-17, 08:43 AM
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Do differential repair shops use it as general practice on this bolt?
 
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Old 02-28-17, 08:46 AM
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Been 15+ years since I retired from autos wrenching. Can't remember doing it but possible. Not a reason for broken bolt.
 
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Old 02-28-17, 10:36 AM
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OK.

Wish I was retired like you
 
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Old 02-28-17, 06:42 PM
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I would expect that the bolt(s) may have been loctighted.
You should still be able to remove them.



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I'm sorry sir.... that's my line.
 
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Old 03-01-17, 10:55 AM
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Haa!

If needed, what dissolves loctite............hot liquid paraffin or something?
 
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Old 03-01-17, 11:21 AM
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Cured loctite makes it harder to turn a bolt/nut, not impossible. Just requires a little more effort.
 
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Old 03-01-17, 11:54 AM
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OK. I purchased a replacement lock bolt also
 
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Old 03-11-17, 04:51 PM
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I cleaned up the gear oil residue and decided to observe. Now I don't see any leaking at the rear axle bearing seal. The rear axle housing is still full of oil.

I wonder now if I was seeing leftover lubricant residue from a previous repair

I'll check it periodically, If the leak appears again, I'll repair right away to avoid contaminating the brake shoes.
 
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Old 03-11-17, 05:08 PM
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The leak is usually a slow seep. It well take a few weeks to show up.
 
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Old 03-11-17, 05:17 PM
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Yeah....very slow leak. That's sort of what I was thinking too.

Well, as soon as it reappears I'll repair. I went ahead and replaced the brake shoes on that side.
 
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Old 03-11-17, 05:23 PM
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You need to use the vehicle. It won't leak just sitting there.
 
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Old 03-11-17, 05:26 PM
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Yes. I'm driving it a lot. I'll definitely keep you guys posted
 
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Old 06-30-17, 02:03 PM
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I checked the rear axle bearing seal again. There is zero leakage right now probably because of expansion with the summer heat. I'm going to put this off indefinitely till the leak reappears. I will update in future no matter how long it takes.
 
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Old 06-30-17, 02:11 PM
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I know when mine leak. It gets on the hot brakes and stinks.
 
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Old 06-30-17, 05:32 PM
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I have not had any brake shoe contamination yet. But I check the leak area periodically. I hope to delay the repair till September.
 
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