1999 Dodge 1500 pickup no crank

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Old 02-27-18, 05:41 PM
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1999 Dodge 1500 pickup no crank

I have a 1999 dodge ram pickup 1500 Laramie SLT. 5.7 2 wheel drive. It has no power to the cab, no dome light no dash lights,no ignition power. When I turn on the headlights with no key in the ignition the warning light does ding. The door locks or power windows don't operate either. I don't use it often but the last 5 or 6 times I used it, when I would turn the key it wouldn't start unless I held it to the floor and then held it at about 900 rpm for a minute or so before it would idle. The last time I went to start it I tried to start it and pushed it to the floor and it sounded like it backfired and lost power. This vehicle has 110000 miles on it.
 
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Old 02-27-18, 06:14 PM
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I assume that you have cleaned and inspected the battery connections and confirmed that all of the fuses are good, so although I can't tell you where they might be, I would locate, clean, and inspect the ground connections to the frame. It might not be all that easy to find them, but they're there. The next area I would inspect is where the wiring harness(es) pass through the firewall, looking for anything that might be loose, corroded, etc.
 
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Old 02-27-18, 07:39 PM
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You are describing two problems. One is a hard starting or poor starting issue..... the other is lack of battery power inside the cab. It could be as simple as a bad ground. The ground connections you need to check are the one from the battery to the frame or body and the one from the engine to the frame.

I had a mobile electronics store and worked on a lot of problem vehicles. You need two things to diagnose problems. A 12v test light and a meter. With a meter you check the battery voltage first right at the battery posts.... not the battery terminals. Then at the battery terminals. Then from the positive battery terminal to the frame or body. You are looking for voltages that are lower than measured at the battery posts. Also measure the voltage from ground under the dash board to some of the always live fuses.
 
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Old 02-27-18, 07:56 PM
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Chrysler used fusible links for a lot of electrical circuits in that model. They are short fuse wires spliced in the wiring where it takes off from main power block and/or battery. Give them a tug individually and feel for stretching insulation. They will burn out inside and not burn through the insulation, hence the stretch test.
Main firewall bulkhead connector is another problem area. If it is equipped with an amp gauge check wire terminal tightness and corrosion on amp gage.

Happy hunting!

RR
 
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Old 02-28-18, 05:23 AM
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Without sounding rude, I too couldn't make sense of the post because it says no power to the cab including the ignition power, yet another part says the only way to get it started was hold it to the floor. Totally confusing to me. One has nothing to do with the other yet each statement conflicts the other. Either there is no power to the ignition switch or there is power. If there is no power to the ignition, what did you do to start it? Again, not being rude, but only trying to get a clear picture of the problem & what you've done.
The post went from an electrical issue to a fuel issue stating that it will only start if you hold it to the floor.

Lets take this one issue at a time & solve each problem separately, unless you feel they are connected somehow that I didn't get. At this point, I cant even begin to help you.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 07:10 AM
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I agree that the post is a bit confusing, and that it does sound like two separate problems; electrical and fuel. But with no power, or maybe power, or maybe intermittent power to the ignition system, and the possibility that the same or similar electrical gremlin could be affecting the TPS system, hence having to hold the pedal down, I'd start with the electrical system, and, being something common to more than one component, am thinking a ground issue. That's how I got there anyway.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 07:53 AM
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Sorry for the confusing post. The hard starting issue was what I was dealing with first ( hold to the floor). The no power issue to the cab is what I have to resolve first before I can even start to tackle the hard starting. Thanks for the replies so far. I am working on the vehicle today.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 08:13 AM
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OK I just checked the battery and have voltage. When I opened the door I did have a dome light and power door locks worked. I put the key in and turned the ignition on and the radio worked power windows worked and I could hear the fuel pump come up to pressure. Then when I turned it to the start position I lost all power again.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 08:23 AM
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Thanks for the clarification. At this point, I'd look for an ignition relay. It sounds like the ignition relay (probably in the fuse panel/box) is tripping... or is bad & trips another relay, when you turn the key.
If this doesnt work, we'll move on to try something else. Several things we can try. Just trying to rule out things one at a time.

Once you try the ignition & the power goes out, how long does it take before all the effected electrical items (door locks, lights etc) come back on?
 
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Old 02-28-18, 08:41 AM
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Probably 10 to 15 minutes. I checked for ground by hooking my test light to my positive post on the battery and touched the altenater case and it lit up but didnt get anything on the ground coming out of the relay box
 
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Old 02-28-18, 10:42 AM
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Often when you loose all power once you try to engage the starter it's because the battery needs charging. It takes more juice to turn a starter than to run any of the accessories.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 10:46 AM
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Everything ok until start and then everything goes dead.

That is a very classic battery connection problem. Have you actually removed and put the battery clamps back on the battery? Sometimes they look fine but aren't.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 12:13 PM
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Well I went in the house and came back out after an hour or so and it started right up. Put it in the garage and shut it off and it did the same thing. When it does it the radio turns off and changes the station to the lowest station I even lost my odometer mileage on my trip odometer. After I let it sit for a few minutes it started right up again, and has started several times since. The Relay box has a positive and a ground hooked up to what looks like a buss bar with a 140 amp fuse. that says alternator. I hooked my test light up to do some testing and it lights up when I touch the positive cable coming into the relay box, but it also lights up on the negative side. The negative does run over to the alternator. That doesn't seem right but it is starting better than it has in two weeks.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 12:16 PM
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As I mentioned.... the battery connections are a high failure item.
As well as the main grounds on an older vehicle.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 12:43 PM
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I'll be cleaning all the connections up and hope that takes care of it.
 
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Old 02-28-18, 02:44 PM
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You might also want to swing by an auto parts store and have them preform a load test on your battery.
 
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