Many years since I replaced water pump

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  #1  
Old 12-03-18, 07:12 AM
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Many years since I replaced water pump

92' Ford Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6 and automatic transmission. My water pump is going bad. It's been a very long time since I changed a water pump. I have a couple questions. My Chilton manual says the fan clutch nut is left hand thread, meaning it has to be turned counter-clockwise to tighten.

I've already sprayed the nut and other bolts with PB Blaster in advance.

1. Does the thread loosening and tightening direction apply when you are facing the vehicle's firewall?

2. Do the water pump mounting bolts tighten in the standard way; clockwise to tighten?

3. One wrench goes on the clutch nut. Where does the other wrench go? Can't quite tell from photo I saw.
 
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  #2  
Old 12-03-18, 09:46 AM
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Left or right handed is usually in reference to the bolt head. So instead of "righty tighty, lefty loosey" your manual is saying the opposite way. Still it's from the bolt head side.
The waterpump mounting bolts should be standard
Not sure what you mean about the "other wrench". Pics would help
 

Last edited by Viriliter_Agite; 12-03-18 at 10:56 AM.
  #3  
Old 12-03-18, 10:52 AM
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I believe the other wrench slides over the 4 water pump pulley bolts if you have any issues removing it you can always use a chisel and hammer on the edge of the fan clutch nut a few hits on the edge of the nut in the clockwise direction to get it started once you break it loose it is very easy to remove if you have any play in the fan clutch you should probably replace it also.
 
  #4  
Old 12-03-18, 01:05 PM
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I just popped the hood. I think I know where to position the wrenches now. But I'll post a photo tonight to make sure. Didn't notice any play in the pulley shaft/fan area.

I might do some light tapping now on the nut. And maybe propane torch heat if I can keep it away from the nylon fan blades

(To answer your question, two opposing wrenches are need to loosen the clutch nut)
 
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Old 12-04-18, 07:29 AM
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Sorry. Forgot to post a photo last night. Too tired after work I guess. I'll remember to do it tonight
 
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Old 12-04-18, 08:51 AM
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You will want to have some fresh 50/50 coolant ready. Might as well change the serpentine belt too.
On my Suburban the waterpump-to-block bolt threads were pretty rusty and took some time to get out without snapping them. I put new ones on, they come in a kit and the threads are coated. Just my &.02.
 
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Old 12-04-18, 09:18 PM
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Ok. I attached the photo. If I'm correct, one wrench goes around the 4 pulley nuts and the other wrench goes on the single big fan clutch nut that looks a little rusty.

Yeah, I'll have plenty of coolant, gasket sealant, and thermostat also

I'm not removing the 4 pulley nuts in the photo.....correct? I'm just using them to anchor one of the wrenches?

The new water pump doesn't come with mounting bolts. The current ones look like flange bolts. Any body know what diameter and thread pitch (or thread size)?
 
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Old 12-05-18, 03:05 AM
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you will have to remove them sometime but get the fan clutch loose first then before removing the belt loosen those bolts, remove belt and the 4 bolts then the pulley once you get the new waterpump bolted up you usually transfer the pulley and those 4 bolts onto the new pump, not really sure what thread size the mounting bolts are though.
 
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Old 12-05-18, 06:58 AM
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Ok. So there are really three bolt locations I have to work with then;

1. Single large fan clutch nut (seen in photo)

2. 4 pulley nuts (seen in photo)

3. And water pump assembly mounting bolts (not in photo)

Am I correct?

(Just thought of something. When I go to parts store tonight, I'll see if they sell a little hardware kit with nuts, bolts, washers. I like to use new hardware)
 
  #10  
Old 12-05-18, 07:04 AM
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I was a mechanic for many years. Water pumps don't come with bolts and I have seldom seen a bolt break when replacing pump. Can happen but very rare. Parts houses have bolts but not a kit with bolts.
Is that a Chevy? Do not loosen belts until you break loose the fan nut. Don't have to take off now b ut make sure it is loose.
 
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Old 12-05-18, 09:07 AM
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It's a 92' Ford Ranger. Yeah. I checked online. They have lots of water pump stud and hardware kits. But nothing for my make/model. The last water pump was from 2013.

I wanted to be prepared just in case. I had a water outlet mounting bolt shear off once. But it was really old. I'll just be really careful with these bolts. I'm pre-treating these now with PB Blaster
 
  #12  
Old 12-05-18, 09:15 AM
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I had to put a torch to the block around one bolt to loosen it. First I degreased the area so I didn't set my engine on fire!
 
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Old 12-05-18, 09:19 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. I read them all carefully. I'll print this before I do the repair.

Are those 4 pulley bolts with heads....................or are those pulley studs with nuts and lock washers? If those are nuts, I'd like to at least replace those.

I don't have a second car. But there is an Auto Zone a short walk from my house. Would they have matching water pump and pulley bolts/studs/hardware for my make/model if I ran into a problem?
 
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Old 12-06-18, 09:17 AM
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If AZ has the hardware in stock, you might pick it up and return it if you don't need it. Would save you a trip.. I always have to be sure one of our other cars is around in case (when) if have to run for more parts.
 
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Old 12-06-18, 12:45 PM
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Yeah. I do that all the time. Buy extra hardware in advance in case I need it. Then return to parts store unopened for refund. These might be specialty bolts/studs/nuts. So I won't know for sure till I remove them. LMC Truck has the pulley bolts only. Too expensive with shipping costs.
 
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Old 12-09-18, 09:55 AM
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I am working on another repair this weekend. I'll have to do the water pump replacement next weekend. The leak seems to be getting worse.

If I use a sealant poured into the coolant like K-Seal or something, will that mess up the coolant temp sensor or cause other problems?

Also, my manual says to use pre-formed gasket with sealant on both sides. Would it be better to skip the pre-formed gasket altogether and just use silicone gasket maker?

(I only ask because my thermostat water inlet housing would always leak with pre-formed gasket because mounting bolts would not tighten enough. I just use silicone gasket maker and it doesn't leak)
 
  #17  
Old 12-09-18, 01:45 PM
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leak stop products dont typically work on waterpump leaks where they are leaking out of the small hole in the front is most often a bad seal.
would probably use both the gasket and sealant where the surfaces may not be flat or may have some imperfections, generally I skip the sealant though but in this case would probably use it as you have had issues before at the thermostat housing witch may have some warpage to it but in some cases you can remove that with sanding on a flat surface.
 
  #18  
Old 12-09-18, 08:03 PM
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Seems like wise advice, Alan. Thanks
 
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