Ran into complication while replacing power steering pump/reservoir
#1
Ran into complication while replacing power steering pump/reservoir
Same old 92' Ranger XLT with 2.9 V6. I was replacing the power steering pump/reservoir today. Everything was going fine. When I pulled out the pump, I noticed the steering shaft flex coupling rag joint was in bad shape. I think leaking power steering fluid ate away a big chunk of it. I guess that is why I have steering wheel 'slop'
It's the rag joint closest to the steering gear. Never done this repair before.
1. Do I have to remove steering gear and Pitman arm to replace this rag joint?
2. What parts do I need?
3. I'm guessing there is thread locker on the flex coupling bolts. Kinda' strange bolts.
Looks like you need Allen wrench for one end and regular wrench for the other end?
Just cut off bolts with my Dremel?
I was unable to load photo. Said I exceeded my quota.
It's the rag joint closest to the steering gear. Never done this repair before.
1. Do I have to remove steering gear and Pitman arm to replace this rag joint?
2. What parts do I need?
3. I'm guessing there is thread locker on the flex coupling bolts. Kinda' strange bolts.
Looks like you need Allen wrench for one end and regular wrench for the other end?
Just cut off bolts with my Dremel?
I was unable to load photo. Said I exceeded my quota.
#2
Replaced many.
Purchase a repair kit at auto parts store. What you call a rag joint will be the main component.
Take out the 4 bolts holding the "rag" and replace with the new parts. You don't need to disconnect anything else. I do remember finding a few that had rivets instead of bolts and they required grinding the rivets away and replacing them with bolts doing the repair.
Bolts are probably either 12 point or Torx.
If you don't have the tools, they aren't real expensive.
You should be able to do the job in just under an hour.
Don't take Dremel to bolts. They should be fairly easy to undo with right tools.
Have fun!
RR
Purchase a repair kit at auto parts store. What you call a rag joint will be the main component.
Take out the 4 bolts holding the "rag" and replace with the new parts. You don't need to disconnect anything else. I do remember finding a few that had rivets instead of bolts and they required grinding the rivets away and replacing them with bolts doing the repair.
Bolts are probably either 12 point or Torx.
If you don't have the tools, they aren't real expensive.
You should be able to do the job in just under an hour.
Don't take Dremel to bolts. They should be fairly easy to undo with right tools.
Have fun!
RR
#3
Ok, One end of the bolt definitely looks like Torx. I have the Torx set at home.
Are you sure I don't have to disconnect the steering gear to expose the shaft end? This doesn't sound right. Doesn't the steering shaft go though a hole in the rag disc? How do I slip the disc onto the shaft if I can't expose the shaft end?
And there isn't enough room to insert the Torx tool because the steering gear is in the way. Please explain.
Are you sure I don't have to disconnect the steering gear to expose the shaft end? This doesn't sound right. Doesn't the steering shaft go though a hole in the rag disc? How do I slip the disc onto the shaft if I can't expose the shaft end?
And there isn't enough room to insert the Torx tool because the steering gear is in the way. Please explain.
#4
Ok, One end of the bolt definitely looks like Torx. I have the Torx set at home.
Are you sure I don't have to disconnect the steering gear to expose the shaft end? This doesn't sound right. Doesn't the steering shaft go though a hole in the rag disc? How do I slip the disc onto the shaft if I can't expose the shaft end?
And there isn't enough room to insert the Torx tool because the steering gear is in the way. Please explain.
Been 20 years since I did one. I might have forgotten something as I have aged.
Possible you might have to remove the assembly for repair, but I really don't think so.
No, the shaft does not go through the "rag". Actually I have made some of the rubber discs from sidewall of old car tire,
Torx also comes in boxend wrenches. Necessary for some 80's Chevy pickups rear U-joint.
RR
Are you sure I don't have to disconnect the steering gear to expose the shaft end? This doesn't sound right. Doesn't the steering shaft go though a hole in the rag disc? How do I slip the disc onto the shaft if I can't expose the shaft end?
And there isn't enough room to insert the Torx tool because the steering gear is in the way. Please explain.
Been 20 years since I did one. I might have forgotten something as I have aged.
Possible you might have to remove the assembly for repair, but I really don't think so.
No, the shaft does not go through the "rag". Actually I have made some of the rubber discs from sidewall of old car tire,
Torx also comes in boxend wrenches. Necessary for some 80's Chevy pickups rear U-joint.
RR
#5
Oh. Wait a minute. Is this like a driveshaft U-joint?
So both ends of the steering shaft connect to the coupling. Then to replace the rag disc, you remove the bolts....insert the new rag joint coupling assembly vertically.............and install new bolts.
Am I beginning to understand now?
So both ends of the steering shaft connect to the coupling. Then to replace the rag disc, you remove the bolts....insert the new rag joint coupling assembly vertically.............and install new bolts.
Am I beginning to understand now?
#7
How was the torx end of the bolt installed to begin with if there isn't enough room to get the torx socket in there? It was done by a repair shop before I started doing my own repairs.
#8
This repair is done. I did not have to remove the steering gear or disconnect the shaft under the dashboard. The lower steering shaft had this rubber 'accordion' style boot in the middle. I removed the two pinch bolts at both ends. Then compressed the lower steering shaft inward and popped it out.
So I have new steering coupling rag joint, new pump/reservoir, new fluid lines, and drive belts.
And no more steering 'slop.'
So I have new steering coupling rag joint, new pump/reservoir, new fluid lines, and drive belts.
And no more steering 'slop.'
#9
I noticed my steering was loosening up again. So I checked the steering shaft coupling I repaired in February. Two bolts are ok. But the other two came loose. It's the two that are inside that collar or yoke thing.
I included a photo of an intact steering coupling like mine. The problem is it's hard to tighten the nuts inside that U-shaped yoke because there isn't much room to insert a wrench, tool, or even a decent length bolt in there. I'd like to just replace the entire intermediate steering shaft with couplings. But the truck is so old, that part is discontinued. And I could not find an aftermarket u-joint type steering shaft.
I'm going to get rid of the torx bolts and use flange bolts or something. I'm seriously thinking about cutting off the horizontal section of the yokes to give me more room to work in. I know the yoke is supposed to keep the shaft from detaching if the bolts and rag disc fall apart. So I would maybe JB Weld a piece of metal to restore that safety feature. What do you think?
I think I can repair this one way or another with the steering shaft still bolted in the engine bay.
I included a photo of an intact steering coupling like mine. The problem is it's hard to tighten the nuts inside that U-shaped yoke because there isn't much room to insert a wrench, tool, or even a decent length bolt in there. I'd like to just replace the entire intermediate steering shaft with couplings. But the truck is so old, that part is discontinued. And I could not find an aftermarket u-joint type steering shaft.
I'm going to get rid of the torx bolts and use flange bolts or something. I'm seriously thinking about cutting off the horizontal section of the yokes to give me more room to work in. I know the yoke is supposed to keep the shaft from detaching if the bolts and rag disc fall apart. So I would maybe JB Weld a piece of metal to restore that safety feature. What do you think?
I think I can repair this one way or another with the steering shaft still bolted in the engine bay.
#10
I repaired the lower steering shaft again yesterday. When I pulled the shaft out of the engine bay, I noticed almost all the steering coupling bolts were coming loose. The last mechanic who worked on the firewall side coupling years ago, didn't even use lock nuts or lock washers, just regular washers.
I didn't have a back-up vehicle to buy extra hardware, so I replaced one with a serrated flange bolt and serrated nut. Then I tightened the other old bolts. Steering is nice and snug again. When the bolts come loose again, I know exactly what replacement hardware I want to use. I took measurements and made a list. When the time comes, I'll rebuild both couplings with serrated flange bolts and matching serrated nuts for locking, and new rag discs too.
On this final point, I feel kinda' stupid mentioning this. But it might help someone. I had great difficulty
re-installing the repaired lower shaft. Every time I tried installing one end of the shaft or the other, I was unable to pop in the other end. I thought about tapping in the other end. But I was worried about damaging the splines.
Finally, I inserted the firewall end of the shaft, Then I lightly tapped in the steering gear end. I was finally done. The lower shaft on my truck compresses and extends. I figured out that you cannot fully extend the shaft into place in the engine bay by hand, because it is slightly offset and bent from the flexing action of the rag disc. So one side has to be lightly and carefully tapped in.
I didn't have a back-up vehicle to buy extra hardware, so I replaced one with a serrated flange bolt and serrated nut. Then I tightened the other old bolts. Steering is nice and snug again. When the bolts come loose again, I know exactly what replacement hardware I want to use. I took measurements and made a list. When the time comes, I'll rebuild both couplings with serrated flange bolts and matching serrated nuts for locking, and new rag discs too.
On this final point, I feel kinda' stupid mentioning this. But it might help someone. I had great difficulty
re-installing the repaired lower shaft. Every time I tried installing one end of the shaft or the other, I was unable to pop in the other end. I thought about tapping in the other end. But I was worried about damaging the splines.
Finally, I inserted the firewall end of the shaft, Then I lightly tapped in the steering gear end. I was finally done. The lower shaft on my truck compresses and extends. I figured out that you cannot fully extend the shaft into place in the engine bay by hand, because it is slightly offset and bent from the flexing action of the rag disc. So one side has to be lightly and carefully tapped in.