Trailer Jack replacement

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  #1  
Old 08-15-20, 05:35 AM
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Trailer Jack replacement

I have a fixed trailer jack on my trailer.





While pulling it up the road at my cabin I hit piece of high ground and the bottom of the jack hit the ground. It bent the lead screw so now it's very difficult to raise and lower (although it does work).
I want to install the flip up type or swing back.

My question is can I install that type and how should I size it in terms of capacity? Should I rate it at the 2000 lbs. top wind jack as originally installed, payload capacity of 2015 lbs., empty weight of 975 lbs. or should I use the 3500 lbs. rated idler axel?

Here's the choices I have to pick from or I can go on E-bay or Amazon to perhaps get cheaper price.

https://www.harborfreight.com/search...trailer%20jack
 
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Old 08-15-20, 05:42 AM
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The jack is only carrying the weight of the tongue and you will likely not park it with a heavy load on it. I think you would be fine with a 1000lb jack. Plus the wheel on the jack will be easier to move the trailer without the truck.
 
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Old 08-15-20, 05:54 AM
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I never use the wheel. In fact I took it off and replaced with a skid pad (blacktop drive leaving dents and marks, and wheel is pretty useless on non paved ground).
I also noticed that anything above 1500 lbs. is a weld on unit (is that true?). I want bolt on. I'm no where's near good enough to weld it myself.
You're correct that I most likely will never keep a vehicle on it without it being attached to the car or truck. But I have kept it parked in drive way while it was loaded with stone.
 
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Old 08-15-20, 06:57 AM
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Looks like I solved the problem. Took a trip to Lowes and they have a Carry-On brand 2000# capacity (as specified by Carry-On) bolt on swing out unit. For $36.00. Bought it! Will install next time I'm at the cabin where trailer is currently stored.
 
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Old 08-15-20, 07:24 AM
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No it's not true that anything above 1500 LB. has to be welded on.
My 30' construction trailer, and my 16' 7000 capacity trailer both have bolt on Vee type jacks like you had.
If you bought what's called a snap ring type jack there made to fit a wide range of widths of tongues.
I always add a spacer on the top side to fill in the gap between the bolts and the frame to keep it from wanting to twist.
 
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Old 08-15-20, 07:49 AM
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I too do not use a wheel. When I do I have to remember to remove it before towing. So, I've mostly switched to flat pad feet for my trailer jacks to get the extra ground clearance. And surprisingly it's actually easier to bump/slide the trailer around a few inches than it was with the wheel.

When looking for jacks make sure you can lower your truck's tailgate without hitting the jack when the jack is in the up position. I've relocated a couple of mine further back on the tongue after having to repair a dented tailgate... twice.
 
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Old 08-15-20, 09:07 AM
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When looking for jacks make sure you can lower your truck's tailgate without hitting the jack when the jack is in the up position. I've relocated a couple of mine further back on the tongue after having to repair a dented tailgate... twice.
Good point. I'll keep that in mind.
The original that is on there now has three bolts holding on, but also seems like the top plate is welded to the frame. I don't have it in front of me so I can't say for sure. If is I assume the crank and screw will drop out of lift up out of he tube.

Joe, I'll keep the spacer idea in mind.

Thanks to you all for the input and ideas.
 
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Old 08-23-20, 07:56 AM
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Installed out in the field. Fit very nice.

 
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Old 08-24-20, 06:34 AM
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I just put a jack like that on my father's enclosed trailer. He's dinged the tailgate on his new truck so we had to move it before more serious damage occurred.
 
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