How do I power a winch?

I have an '02 Silverado. I want a Harbor Freight winch mounted in the bed. I am not sure gow to wire it. Here is the instructions https://manuals.harborfreight.com/ma...1999/61297.pdf My main question is, whats up with the solenoid in the diagram? I do not have one and I don't know what it does in this situation. A fuse or circuit breaker is all I understand and mt winch does have the circuit breaker. What kind of wire do I need? Etc.
Can someone give me a boost on this project?

 

Have you bought the winch yet? I suspect the "solenoid" comes with it. (Likely the control box)

I can't find how much current the winch draws but I would recommend #10 or #8 automotive-type copper wire as it is more flexible and will be easier to route/work with.

 

The solenoid is just like the one for your starter. You don't run all of that operating juice through a single switch between the battery and the winch, the same as you don't run the starting current through the ignition switch on your steering column. A single switch for that kind of current (and T.I.'s recommended wire size) would be massive.

 

Okay, browsed the instructions some more. It refers to a remote control, but I'm not sure if that is something wireless or a connected control switch. At any rate, the solenoid box is controlled by this remote and when you actuate whatever switch is involved, it closes the solenoid to power up the winch.

Instructions call for #10 cable.

 

Yes.... that is a remote controlled switching solenoid. The instructions are pretty vague.

Typically the winch is mounted in the front and #10 would be ok.
Since you're putting it in the rear.... I'd increase the wiring size to at least #8 due to voltage dropping.

 

I made a mistake. I posted the wrong link to the manual. It is not 61297. The correct model is 95912. The correct link is here https://manual-hub.com/manuals/chica...01-pdf-manual/
This winch apparently does not have a solenoid or a breaker that needs to be inline. But I wonder if they are built into the winch.
I opened the box mounted to the top of the winch and it does not appear to have them in there either. The box contains 2 relays (forward and reverse?) and a small circuit board which I assume is the remote receiver. Where are the solenoid and breaker?
I guess my only question is, what size wire to use and that has been answered (#8).

 

Well, based on the manual, the box on top is the remotely controlled solenoid. All the installation instructions call for is attaching the two power leads and activating via the remote.

 

Yes..... the box contains the entire control assembly.

You still need a protection method at the battery. It protects the wiring in case it shorts to ground.

I had a mobile electronics shop for many years. I had to make sure my work was safe and bulletproof.
I had different size fuses in stock and could select the right one by trial.
I'd try an AGU-200 on your winch and have a spare AGU-300.
You could also go with a 200A circuit breaker.

 

Was not sure if I should ask another question in trucks forum or in electrical forum, so I decided to ask it in this old thread of mine since it deals with the same winch.

My battery in my winch remote died. So I wonder, in place of a battery (which I just don't feel like replacing at this time, can I wire a switch to the winch for manual operation instead of useing the remote?

Would I wire the switch somewhere in the circuit that trips the relay in the control box or would I wire the switch right between the truck battery and the winch, bypassing the control box?

 

you would need to wire it to the relays in the control box if that is what it has would have to know what all is inside the control box to really help since it was a remote may not be an easy way to hook up a switch.

 

You would need a three terminal switch. SPDT spring loaded center off. (ON) - OFF - (ON)
It would get connected inside the relay box.
We'd need to see a picture of the relays/wiring to supply connection help.

It may be easier to replace the 12v lighter battery in the remote.

 

Well, I got tired of scouring the internet for a wiring diagram for the Harbor Freight 95912 winch and I made a wiring diagram for all who need one. It took me a couple of hours because I don't use GIMP enough to be proficient with it. So here it is.

 

so basically you would wire w and bl to a rocker switch supplying ground to energize one relay at a time depending on which way you moved the switch this is just a simple reversing of polarity using 2 5 pin relays does it not have heavy duty solenoids perhaps the amp draw is not enough for an atv winch to require it.

 

Does anyone know how to test a relay?

 

My relays are 12v 40amp. In the world of relays is this a light duty relay?
I loaded a lawn tractor today by pulling up a pretty steep ramp to my truck. It went well and was working when I was done. Then when I hit the remote again it did not work. I could hear the relays clicking. I took the control box cover off and found that the wire from the relay to the motor ground was unplugged. I plugged it in and hooked the power back up and the motor leads had no power. I listened closely and the relays were not clicking. This makes no sense to me. Testing the relays is the next step.

 

Heres an updated and better schematic.

My relays are working (clicking) when powered directly but not when using the remote.
I have power at "R" and "BK" but thats as far as I got.
I am now suspecting that my remote receiver is kerplunk.

 

I have found that the relay on the left is fried. The contacter from pin 30 is fried so that there is no contact between either 87 or 87a.
My question is, will this situation cause total non-function of the winch? I think so as it looks like the fried relay also passes power to the other relay. I am assuming that this is the whole problem and the remote receiver is probably ok. Please excuse my appearance to total ignorance. I am fine working with ONE relay but two working together is quite confusing. So I am guessing that is I replace the fried relay my winch will probably be ok.

 

if the relay failed to make contact with both 87 and 87a the motor would not work.
relays are not that difficult to test but if you think about them as 2 circuits one is the coil and the other is the contacts when you operate the receiver switch to let cable out only 1 relay should click on and the other will click on when your going in the other direction and pulling the cable in the relay that is on at the time is suppling power to the motor but the relay that is off is still supplying ground for the motor to run if you lose either one of these power or ground the motor will not work.

 

Wasn't there power switching relays in there from the start and were remote controlled ?
And just the remote control stopped working ?
You should have been able to just add a basic switch to the existing power relays.

Those relays.... the Bosch or "look alike Bosch are not the best choice for that setup.
Some are rated at 30A.... some at 40A. A little small for motor loads.

This is what you should be using.

 

Sorry for the confusion. I assumed that the remote receiver was bad but now that I know that a relay is fried I think that is the problem, not the receiver. I will get a new relay on payday.