Flatbedded to be specific. I don't drive the truck often, it always ran and started fine, even in winter after not running for a few weeks. I drove about 10 miles, it stalled and would not restart. It turns over, installed a new battery last fall. I know it could be many things, and I have to do a lot of diagnosis. I borrowed 2 different scanners, both said 0 Codes, Should the engine be turning over when pressing 'Read' on the scanner?
With a 191k miles I'd think a bad fuel pump would be likely, and I don't know if I'll get it fixed if that is the case, Estimates I've seen were $1,000+. I've also heard the ring around the fuel pump that needs to be removed is often stuck due to rust in the area where I live. Just my luck I could see having to get a new or replacement tank.
But due to what I've found in the last week, I'm suspecting a bad fuel pump a little less. Three times so far, the truck started when I first tried it, It ran for about 20 seconds, rpms went down, up then stalled and won't restart. I don't think it's a fuel filter, I had new fuel lines installed in August 2021, which of course included a new filter. I'm asking if, that it tends to start (not always) and runs briefly after not being or attempting to be started for a few days, could it still be a bad fuel pump? I've seen if when the gauge reads empty and/or the low fuel light is on, that tends to indicate a bad fuel pump. The gauge reads 1/4 of a tank and no low fuel light.
When you have older vehicle like me, I should have diagnostic tools on hand, but I don't - such as a pressure gauge. I know I could still check for spark. Like you said - good chance it is a bad pump.
If it's quiet..... turn the key to ignition on. You should hear the pump in the tank run for a few seconds.
Do you hear that ?
Easy to check for fuel pressure in fuel rail.
Turn key on and off for a few seconds..... several times.
Shown on the passenger side. It's a metal tube that connects the fuel injectors together.
Remove the cap and there is a schrader valve fitting that you can push in to test for fuel.
If no fuel.... good chance of bad pump.
Shown on the passenger side. It's a metal tube that connects the fuel injectors together. Remove the cap and there is a schrader valve fitting that you can push in to test for fuel. If no fuel.... good chance of bad pump.
I found the valve, good description/location. Took the cap off, pressed the valve, there was fuel.
I really didn't expect that. Now maybe something electrical.
pressing in on the shrader valve really doesn't tell you anything if you hear the pump running for a couple of seconds when you turn the key on would imagine there is some pressure in the fuel rail but it may not be enough to really start or run the engine, surging is a common symptom of low fuel pressure when there is enough pressure for it to start but not run well so you really need to measure pressure with a gauge to see if you have 40 psi or a much lower pressure.
fuel injected pressure gauges often go to 80-100 psi on the gauge so there a little more expensive, but you may see if any parts store rent them out as a tool rental.
Turn key on and off for a few seconds..... several times.
Definitely a pattern there - this morning turning the truck on first thing, started, ran for about 7 seconds, stalled. Just turning the key back on, it won't start, But - if I cycle the key on/off to where the dash a red battery light turns on, it will start and run for about 5 seconds. Did that 3 times. For the brief time it does run, it's smooth as usual, I can press the accelerator and RPMs rise accordingly like there's nothing wrong.
fuel injected pressure gauges often go to 80-100 psi on the gauge so there a little more expensive, but you may see if any parts store rent them out as a tool rental.
Now I know what the fuel pump should sound like - my neighbor stopped by with his 2005 Silverado, Mine is silent, so it does seem to be the fuel pump, The associate fuse's continuity checked good last week. When starting fluid was sprayed into the throttle body, the truck did start and ran (roughly) for a couple seconds.
A new fuel pump was installed. There was a check engine light - ran idling for about 15 minutes. 20 minutes later started it again - no check engine light. Same with yesterday, drove it around the block, ran fine.
But - there's a noise from the fuel pump, more specifically from the far right line. A vibration can be felt in just that one. Everything is tight. Sounds kind of like a liquid and air type noise. Don't know if that's normal. The engine is smooth as it always has been. Today will determine how to cover the hole in the bed (went that route as the truck is not my daily driver). Will make the cover removable of course just in case.
I have a Toyota Tacoma 2003. It is still running great. However, the AC seems a bit weak last year so I used one of those Artic cans and it worked fine last year. As of this year, there is no longer cold air coming out unless at night. So today, I used that same can from last year but when I connected it, the needle went into the red zone.
Either the can went bad or it is time to bring this in to the shop for an AC recharge. Before I bring it in, is there anything else I should try?
How much is an AC recharge cost?
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I replaced a leaky rear axle bearing wheel seal earlier this year and the replacement started leaking within days.
It seems likely that I caused this myself through improper technique. I'd like to install the new seal this weekend. This time I'm using the bearing race and seal driver set pictured below. I need to get this right once and for all. I can't keep pulling the axle shaft and pinion shaft lock bolt. It could cause excessive wear.
The axle shaft seemed to be a snug fit through the seal hole. Could they have machined off some material on the shaft causing a slightly lower diameter? Maybe there was some leakage at the seal hole where the shaft inserts.
When I use this tool, do you recommend tapping the end of the handle with a rubber mallet? Or would you omit the handle and tap the race directly with the mallet?
Also, this might sound like a silly question. But I just want to make sure. Which side of the seal do I tap in? Seal and tool is pictured below.
[img]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/p_20230531_091912_f20afb06dd051224cc7da3b0f3948b8718bffaad.jpg[/img]Read More