Wheel seal installed in February started leaking almost right away

I replaced a leaky rear axle bearing wheel seal earlier this year and the replacement started leaking within days.
It seems likely that I caused this myself through improper technique. I'd like to install the new seal this weekend. This time I'm using the bearing race and seal driver set pictured below. I need to get this right once and for all. I can't keep pulling the axle shaft and pinion shaft lock bolt. It could cause excessive wear.

The axle shaft seemed to be a snug fit through the seal hole. Could they have machined off some material on the shaft causing a slightly lower diameter? Maybe there was some leakage at the seal hole where the shaft inserts.

When I use this tool, do you recommend tapping the end of the handle with a rubber mallet? Or would you omit the handle and tap the race directly with the mallet?

Also, this might sound like a silly question. But I just want to make sure. Which side of the seal do I tap in? Seal and tool is pictured below.

 

Use the handle, and you can tap on it with a regular hammer. Using a mallet (unless it's a hard-face one) would be harder to drive the seal. Lube the inner diameter so it slides over the shaft. Be sure to inspect the shaft surface where the seal rides for any imperfections. That's the outside of the seal facing camera, inner side would normally show recessed area with tension spring depending on the seal type.

 

Technically you want something the outside size of the seal. I use large sockets.
You don't want anything that goes in the center when driving it it.
The rubber is easily damaged.
The back side of the seal should be open and have a visible spring.
Make sure the spring is in place.
Be sure to grease the axle. I use synth. gear lube in a tube but anything is ok.
You should be able to see the sealing location on the axle.
A green Scotchbrite pad does a great job of cleaning it up.

 

Yep. The back of the seal has the little tension spring you mentioned. I'll consider purchasing a 2 inch socket which is what I would need to tap in the seal, If not, I'll use the tool kit pictured above.

Based on how the axle rebuilder installed the seal on the other side, the side you labeled as 'back' would be facing the rear axle housing. I will follow the instructions you all included here. And yes, I did use a green kitchen scouring pad to clean surfaces the first time.

By the way, this is now the second time I will be removing the C-Lock at the axle shaft button end. I can re-use that C-Lock over and over........correct?

 

Like PJMax, I always used a socket to tap in seals.

 

I notice a lot of people seem to favor the socket tapping method. Is it ok to re-use that C-Lock?

 

are you talking about the c clip holding the axle in place yes you can re use those might also check your vent hose on the differential just to make sure its not clogged up.

 

Mostly you only see those seal driver sets at repair shops. I'm like the other guys, find something round and hard that's the right size and drive away.

 

that seal on the front look fairly flat to me but many seals actually protrude out in the front so a socket large enough to not hit the inner rubber lip is usually used to drive those in.

 

Correct Alan, I was referring to the C-Clip holding the axle in place. And yes, the wheel seal I included in the photo is flat on the front. I might use some spray gasket on the outer edge of the seal. I believe that orange stuff you see on the seal outer edge is a sealant applied at the factory.

I already checked the axle tube vent for clogging. But thanks for reminding me. That is important.

 

The warranty guy at the axle assembly manufacturer said it wouldn't hurt to check for cracks around the area of the bearing hub.....although it is highly unlikely that would cause the gear oil leak.

Is there something I can apply that might make a crack stand out more?

 

Doubtful there is a crack in the housing.
I've never added any sealant. The coating they give on the bearing should be fine.
I've only ever seen the rubber part leak at the axle.

 

Yeah. I doubt it too. If it's ok...........I'll re-use the rubber O-Ring on the axle shaft button end also.
I don't know if those are easy size to replace if a new one is needed.

 

I'm going to re-schedule this for next weekend. I need to shop for a 2 inch diameter (or whatever fits the seal) socket to tap in the seal. I also want to have axle shaft button O-Rings and a couple other supplies on hand.

I have no back-up car so I have to plan more in advance, to avoid delays that could leave me stranded without transportation. So I'm headed for the auto parts store now. Thanks

 

I'm confused, I thought you had the driver set in the first pic.

 

I now have a perfect fit socket to compare with the driver set. The driver set is a loaner tool which is refunded upon return. I also bought an assortment of O-Rings.

I have everything I need now for next weekend. It will be an overnight process because I want to make sure any sealant and orange thread locker is hardened. I have a full-time job during the week.

 

Thanks. I got the new wheel seal in. I'll watch it to see if it leaks.

 

I checked the wheel seal today. It's not leaking.