I have a Toyota Tacoma 2003. It is still running great. However, the AC seems a bit weak last year so I used one of those Artic cans and it worked fine last year. As of this year, there is no longer cold air coming out unless at night. So today, I used that same can from last year but when I connected it, the needle went into the red zone.
Either the can went bad or it is time to bring this in to the shop for an AC recharge. Before I bring it in, is there anything else I should try?
Somewhere in the system a leak has formed and that needs to be found, they fill the system with dye and use UV light to locate then replace the component.
Had a condenser go bad on my Captiva , I found the part on eBay for $150, they wanted $600, the swap of part and fill was $300.
The problem could be as simple as a defective valve stem.
If the system is empty.... it would probably be pressure tested first.
Then if nothing was found.... a recharge with dye.
I called my mechanic and asked him for a quote. Pretty much closed to what you listed. A few hundred to do a dye test, a few hundred for parts and a few hundred for fill up.
It turned out that I was using the AC can incorrectly. I had to turn on the Engine first before connecting. Otherwise, it does not detect the compressor, the needle in the gauge will go into the red zone.
When I turned on the engine and turned on the AC to full blast (rolled down windows), then the gauge was on the low side. As soon as I filled it, AC got cold again. This is the same can that I bought from last year. I only used half last year. My truck uses R134a refrigerant.
I have another related question. Once I put one of these gauges on one of these refrigerant cans, I cannot remove the can from the gauge until the can is empty right? Otherwise, all of the refrigerant will be rushing out right? Or does the can have a self seal valve?
That hose assembly has a fitting that connects to the can, you slide up the outer sleeve, insert it over the nipple on the can, then release so it can be connected and disconnected as many times as needed.
After looking at the link to the cans they look different than what I have. The one I have has a hole in the top and a collar, these look like they screw on, thinking the two items are not compatible!
Pete, sorry, I do not understand. Are you saying once I connect a hose to the can, I cannot remove the hose and shutoff valve until the can is empty? I was just wondering is it safe to remove the hose and shutoff valve on cans that still have refrigerant in them when they are not all used.
If you started with a can with a flat shiny cover.... you cannot remove the valve.
That is a puncture type can. Once the can is punctured the valve must remain connected.
The newer style with the hole in the middle has a built-in schrader valve.
With this type you can remove the valve and the can will self seal.
commonly disconnect puncture style cans yes it will leak out but its not a lot of freon to begin with, this was common practice when this style can was all that was available now that the new self sealing style is available guess you have an option of removing it and maybe it will hold freon till next time you use it, with manifold gauges you can turn off the gauges and leave the punctured can on the fill hose it still may not hold long term though leaving hoses attached and a can of freon under the hood is not something I would want to do.
if it was r134a they are commonly sold in 12 oz cans the stuff you linked to not sure what it is or if you even want it in the system.
2013 Ram 1500 need to change front pads. Will also change the rotors while doing it because I had a little grinding when hitting the brakes hard and can't seem to find anyone that will turn them. I had them changed a couple of years ago and the pads they used caused major brake dust on rims.
The dealer pads are on back-order and I have been looking at NAPA ceramic pads Adaptive One brand.
I was told ceramic pads cause less dust and are overall good pads.
Has anyone had any luck with these pads? .Thanks
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Flatbedded to be specific. I don't drive the truck often, it always ran and started fine, even in winter after not running for a few weeks. I drove about 10 miles, it stalled and would not restart. It turns over, installed a new battery last fall. I know it could be many things, and I have to do a lot of diagnosis. I borrowed 2 different scanners, both said 0 Codes, Should the engine be turning over when pressing 'Read' on the scanner?
With a 191k miles I'd think a bad fuel pump would be likely, and I don't know if I'll get it fixed if that is the case, Estimates I've seen were $1,000+. I've also heard the ring around the fuel pump that needs to be removed is often stuck due to rust in the area where I live. Just my luck I could see having to get a new or replacement tank.
But due to what I've found in the last week, I'm suspecting a bad fuel pump a little less. Three times so far, the truck started when I first tried it, It ran for about 20 seconds, rpms went down, up then stalled and won't restart. I don't think it's a fuel filter, I had new fuel lines installed in August 2021, which of course included a new filter. I'm asking if, that it tends to start (not always) and runs briefly after not being or attempting to be started for a few days, could it still be a bad fuel pump? I've seen if when the gauge reads empty and/or the low fuel light is on, that tends to indicate a bad fuel pump. The gauge reads 1/4 of a tank and no low fuel light.
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06-07-23, 11:48 PM
