pump problem


  #1  
Old 09-01-02, 04:55 PM
kegobeer
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Question pump problem

We just bought our house and it has a sprinkler system. When we moved in, I noticed the pump was running and the line going to the sprinklers was blown off the top of the pump. I had a guy come in and he recommended a new pump. (The entire pump setup looked like a Rube Goldberg contraption, I wish I had pics of it ) I now have a new 1hp Berkeley jet pump.

All was well for about 10 days, until I noticed a few days ago that the pump was running (the cycle had completed at least an hour prior), the pressure at the bladder tank was 0 psi, the tubing at the pump suction port was, for lack of a better word, melted and crushed, and there was water everywhere. I shut off the pump and haven't done anything to it.

What is causing this? I've read a lot the last few days but haven't found anything that can explain it.

TIA.

Dave
 
  #2  
Old 09-02-02, 06:08 PM
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Hello Dave

Doesn't look like there are any takers for your question here (and I certainly don't have an answer for it )

Going to move your question over to plumbing - hopefully someone there can help.

Howie

btw - for everyone over in the Plumbing forum, this post originated in Lawns and I assume it's about a lawn irrigation system. H.
 
  #3  
Old 09-02-02, 06:37 PM
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First off, I would call the plumber back out to see what he has to say. I sounds as if the head of the pump is getting hot and melting the plumbing coming from the pump head.
But to put you in touch with a pro...try:

www.peekspump.com/

Ron is very good and is willing to help with most problems.
 
  #4  
Old 09-02-02, 07:37 PM
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kegobeer:
I agree that you should call back the person that replaced your pump.
It sounds like it is only 10 days old and there should be some form of warranty.
If a pump runs without water moving through it, the pump case could surely get hot enough to melt a plastic hose.
Also a small amount of suction could collapse a hot suction line.
There could be something wrong with the design of the system to cause this to happen. Your pump installer should have made sure the system was reliable.
 
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Old 09-03-02, 05:40 PM
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Pump problem

Dave,
Either your water source dried up, or the pump developed a leak in the suction line. Either way the pump will sustain the kind of damage you described.
Here's what happens:
The water that is left in the pump is recirculated around and around inside the pump housing. Heat is created through friction and it's this heat that softens and warps the piping. It doesn't have to be plastic for this to happen. I've seen cast iron pumps and steel piping do the same thing.
The bad thing here is that the impeller and/or diffuser inside the pump are probably destroyed too. Besides the impeller and diffuser, you'll probably need a mechanical seal also. If the pump housing is cast iron, it'll probably be ok. If it's plastic I'd almost bet that it's warped too.
Call the installer and have him check it out.
Hope this helps.
Ron Peeks
R.L. Peeks Pump Sales
www.peekspump.com
 
  #6  
Old 09-03-02, 07:41 PM
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Cool

Sounds like a pump rebuild to me, Ron.
Mike
 
  #7  
Old 09-03-02, 07:55 PM
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Pumpman:
I have heard of overheating damage as you describe.
Would it not make sense and have you ever heard of using a limit thermostat to protect the pump housing?
 
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Old 09-04-02, 12:27 AM
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Pumpman

Mike and GregH,
I'm almost sure that the pump will need to be rebuilt. I think the only question here is what caused the problem and who should be responsible. The installer cannot be held responsible if the well (or other water source) dried up for some reason. However, the installer may be at fault if the problem stemmed from something he did, such as a bad PVC joint for example.
I have seen thermostats that attach directly to the pump housing and wire into one leg of the wiring at the pressure switch. Robotron Industries manufactures one that shuts the pump down when the housing reaches 120 degrees. The only problem I see with these is that where I live the ambient temps approach 115 degrees about five months a year. At these temps the pump would never be able to start! They're already so hot you can't put your bare hand on them. Where temps would allow it, though, I think it would be a great idea.
While we're on this subject, I regularly install a float switch that attaches to the pump suction line and wires into one side of the pressure switch. If the water level drops too low, the float will shut the pump off and protect it from damage. Many pressure switches also have a low pressure dropout to protect the pump in the event of a line rupture or low water level.Either method is cheal as compared to a pump rebuild.
Best regards,
Ron Peeks
www.peekspump.com
 
  #9  
Old 09-04-02, 12:15 PM
kegobeer
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Pump is working

Luckily there was no damage to the pump. I ran new pvc from the well to the pump, and from the pump to the existing sprinkler system. I also installed a new check valve. Once I primed the system, everything worked great.

There's a recurring problem, and I hope I can get some good advice. When zone 1 is watering, the pump runs constantly, putting out somewhere around 30psi. However, when zone 2 and 3 are watering, the output climbs to 45 psi, and the pump shuts off. Once the pressure falls below 20, the pump kicks back on.

Can I fix this problem by upping the gpm on a few sprinkler heads in zones 2 and 3 from 1.5 to 3 or 4? Or maybe removing a head in zones 2 and 3 and putting in a soaker hose?

Thanks in advance.

Keg
 
  #10  
Old 09-04-02, 03:57 PM
kegobeer
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Fixed

Increasing the gpm in one head in each zone did the trick. Thanks again, everyone.
 
 

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