Toilet came loose!

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  #1  
Old 09-08-02, 11:39 AM
J
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Toilet came loose!

Help!

Somehow my toilet has come loose form the floor!?!

I was in the guest bathroom, and I noticed a rust looking stain at the base of the toilet, as is the outline of the toilet had shifted. I pushed on the tank and sure enough the whole thing shifted to one side.

I took the bolt caps off the base and the closet bolts were loose, the one on the right came up in my hand and was covered in wax. I couldn't get either of them to re-tighten.

What do I do??

Thanks,

Joe
 
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  #2  
Old 09-08-02, 11:58 AM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
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Cool

If a toilet moves it ruins the wax seal under it, and you will have to replace the wax seal and re-set the toilet.
The toilet flange should be bolted to the floor, and then the toilet base is bolted to the flange. Your's apparently is rusted out where the upside down toilet bolt heads slide into the flange to hold the toilet base down on both sides.
A. You should get a set of new toilet bolts, a new wax ring, and possibly a flange repair kit. You can check the flange as soon as you remove the toilet. It may be that the bolt has corroded instead of the flange, or just gotten loose and slipped out.
B. Turn off the water to the toilet. Flush the toilet, and then sponge out the leftover water in the bottom of the tank.
C. Disconnect the water inlet tube from the bottom of the tank.
D. Disconnect both toilet bolts holding it to the flange, and carefully lay it over out of the way on a pile of old carpet or towels (porcelain cracks easily).
E. Scrape and clean the old wax ring off the flange and toilet base.
F. Repair the flange, if necessary. Using some of the old wax to hold the upside down bolts in place, set the new bolts upright in the flange at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.
G. Put the new wax ring either on the flange or on the toilet base (it will stick), and lower the toilet straight down onto it.
H. Sit or stand on the toilet and wiggle it down level on the floor.
(Check the level with a level across the bowl. If it isn't level, you can use plastic shims made for the purpose to level it.)
I. Snug the washers and nuts down on the new toilet bolts so that the toilet can't move. Do NOT over-tighten the nuts, as it may crack the tooilet base.
J. Reconnect the water supply tube to the tank, and fire it up.
Should be good to go.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #3  
Old 09-09-02, 01:38 PM
J
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Wow. Thanks for all of the details. Now I'm scared that the flange (or worse, the floor) might have a problem. Hopefully, it's just loose nuts.

I'll try to get the parts tomorrow - wax ring, bolts, flange repair kit, putty knife and see about doing the work on Wed.

I wonder how much a plumber would charge to come and re-set it? And I wonder how much he will charge after I find out it's something worse?

-Joe


Originally posted by OldGuy
If a toilet moves it ruins the wax seal under it, and you will have to replace the wax seal and re-set the toilet.
The toilet flange should be bolted to the floor, and then the toilet base is bolted to the flange. Your's apparently is rusted out where the upside down toilet bolt heads slide into the flange to hold the toilet base down on both sides.
A. You should get a set of new toilet bolts, a new wax ring, and possibly a flange repair kit. You can check the flange as soon as you remove the toilet. It may be that the bolt has corroded instead of the flange, or just gotten loose and slipped out.
B. Turn off the water to the toilet. Flush the toilet, and then sponge out the leftover water in the bottom of the tank.
C. Disconnect the water inlet tube from the bottom of the tank.
D. Disconnect both toilet bolts holding it to the flange, and carefully lay it over out of the way on a pile of old carpet or towels (porcelain cracks easily).
E. Scrape and clean the old wax ring off the flange and toilet base.
F. Repair the flange, if necessary. Using some of the old wax to hold the upside down bolts in place, set the new bolts upright in the flange at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.
G. Put the new wax ring either on the flange or on the toilet base (it will stick), and lower the toilet straight down onto it.
H. Sit or stand on the toilet and wiggle it down level on the floor.
(Check the level with a level across the bowl. If it isn't level, you can use plastic shims made for the purpose to level it.)
I. Snug the washers and nuts down on the new toilet bolts so that the toilet can't move. Do NOT over-tighten the nuts, as it may crack the tooilet base.
J. Reconnect the water supply tube to the tank, and fire it up.
Should be good to go.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
  #4  
Old 09-10-02, 06:23 PM
J
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Update

Ok, so I talked to a plumber who said that it could cost between $60-$85 to re-set the toilet, depending on what caused the problem (bolt came loose, flange broke, etc.).

But, he can't get to it until next week.

SO I stopped by the hardware store on my way home and bought a Fluidmaster "Wax-Free toilet installation Bowl Gasket" (Part #7500). It says it works on 3" and 4" pipes, and uses O-rings to make a seal so there is no messy wax.

Has anyone (Oldguy?) had any experience with one of these? Good? Bad? DON"T USE IT!!!

I got a Fluidmaster Fill Valve for my Master bath toilet earlier this year, and thought it worked much better than the Wal-Mart version I had previously bought, so I decided to take this chance.

Should I go ahead and try it?

Thanks,

Joe
 
  #5  
Old 09-15-02, 09:40 AM
J
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Well, I think I fixed it.

I took it all apart yesterday morning and, after getting rid of the wax (ugh!), I found that one of the bolts had broken off at the base. The flange and floor were both fine.

I cleaned it all up and placed the new fluidmaster wax-free gasket, reset the bowl, and reconnected the water. No problems so far.

Thanks for the help OldGuy.
Joe
 
  #6  
Old 09-15-02, 12:48 PM
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Cool

I've not personally used one of the new Fluidmaster toilet seals, but I understand that they work just fine.
I think that i'll try one the next time that I have to re-set one of my toilets.
Mike
 
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