HELP! 2 handle laundry faucet


Old 02-10-03, 09:03 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 51
HELP! 2 handle laundry faucet

I have to replace the 2 handle laundry faucet in my basement, it looks simple enough, but the pipes are OLD and galvanized. I have to figure out how to get the pipes disconnected first, then I'm kinda lost, on how to sweat the pipes and the soldering thing!

I'm also wondering if I should replace the spigots for the washer?, while I 'm at it .

I scrolled through the whole plumbing forum first, to see if someone already asked about this, but I couldn't find anything.

I also went to the DYI site first, and wouldn't ya know it, NOTHING on 2 handle laundry faucets,

anyway, any help is much obliged,
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Old 02-10-03, 09:18 AM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,952

Awright Kid, DRAW!
LOL. Couldn't resist.
Replacing a faucet (two-handled or single) on galvanized pipes:
1. If you don't have cut-off valves, get two (1/2" pipe thread to 3/8") and two short flex faucet connector lines.
2. Turn off the water.
3. Unscrew the two existing faucet line nuts counter-clockwise to get them disconnected from the galvanized. Remove the old faucet, and set the new one on the sink.
4. Use 2-3 flat wraps of teflon tape on the male threaded ends of the galvanized clockwise only as you would face the threaded end.
5. Screw the cut-offs tightly on both galvanized pipes (hot on left, cold on right).
6. Connect the flex lines to the cut-offs, and to the faucet male connections. Loop them if necessary. Flex lines have built-in rubber seals on both ends, so you don't need any tape on them. If your faucet has straight connections lines without pre-soldered male connectors, you can use a 3/8" brass compression fitting on the faucet lines to the flex lines.
Good luck!
Old 02-10-03, 10:10 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 51
Thanks for the help, I got the old faucet off, but it looks as if I removed it from the brass compression fittings., There is about 3 inches of pipe below the washer spigots, am I supposed to remove that pipe also?
I'm also not sure what you mean by cut-off valves? I turned off the water?
I'm not sure what flex lines are either?
Maybe I can explain this a little better,
I have two straight pipes that come down from the basement ceiling, they run down about 40" to a small T-pipe, which is where the washer spigots are, then under that, there is about 3" of pipe,where the brass fitting is.
I took off the old faucet, right at the brass fitting.

I sure appreciate the help,, LOL @ the "draw",,, most people don't get the nickname.
Old 02-10-03, 10:44 AM
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 664
was the old faucet hanging directly off of the old steel pipes or was it sitting on the deck of the sink? It sounds like it was hanging directly on the wall. In that case your new faucet must adapt to the old connectors on the wall. New adjustable wall mount faucets come with mounting nipples that should screw into the wall and then you rotate these pieces to the right width and the faucet screws on to the mounting nippes by two compression nuts.

reply with more detail if we are way off.
Old 02-10-03, 10:51 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 51
No, this faucet was hanging directly from the old pipes, nothing comes out of the wall. These pipes and fittings are so old, I don't know how to get the brass fittings off?
Old 02-11-03, 06:27 AM
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: MI
Posts: 51
Ok, this is what I did,
I took a small T-pipe and connected it to the hanging water pipes, then took an 1 1/2 nipple and put in the bottom of the T pipe, then I used a coupler to connect the faucet to the nipple.

Does that sound right? only problem is that the coupler leaks,
I've taken it apart twice and put it back together and the thing still leaks.

Whats my problem?

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