this is ridiculous (water heater draining)

Old 03-15-03, 05:23 PM
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this is ridiculous (water heater draining)

First the water heater was draining for 12 hours, then when I mentioned that it was taking so long to empty, the drain valve for the heater was supposedly opened. Well the drain valve was closed instead for about 3 hours. Now it was reopened, has been open for about 3 hours and water is still draining into the sump pump area. And all this time I have had to wipe up puddles of water from the floor by the water heater, and by the furnace (the water heater is by the furnace). Plus I have to go and run the sump pump every so often, so the water does not overflow there, causing more puddles for me to wipe up, I have run out of dry rags. Can anyone tell me about how long, in hours, it takes for a 40 gallon water heater to drain.
Old 03-15-03, 10:18 PM
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1/2 hour, are you sure the water is shut off, doesn't sound like it, the valve might not be working.
Old 03-16-03, 12:58 AM
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I'm with Frank on the amount of time. Though, I've never timed it, but it may actually be closer to 20 minutes. I'm also with both Frank's response to this query and the one the moderator posted to your original thread; Apparently and obviously, your Mom either didn't turn-off the cold water valve or it is not functioning.

If the cold water cut-off is not functioning properly and you or your Mom are planning to try and fix the leak, so you want the tank empty; You are going to need to cut-off the water somewhere higher up the line; If there's no other cut-off available, you should go to the house shut-off and if you don't have one of those, you'll need to cut-off the house water supply in the meter box at the curb or in the pumphouse at the well, whichever is appropriate for your installation.

And if your desire was only to wash away the sediment; You've certainly achieved that goal and any way you look at it, by my guesitmate based on your two posts, you've been pouring water down the drain for upwards of fifteen hours and you may want to contact your water company on Monday to see if they would be willing to give you any consideration, when it comes to your next water bill.

Also, if the leak is still present and you are wanting to try and fix it, or if you are planning to replace the tank; You'll find some valuable how-to information by searching this forum and of course, you are welcome to post back with the particulars of your situation and I'm sure someone will be glad to help.

Peace Out;
Old 03-16-03, 05:58 AM
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If you cut the water off to your heater, be sure to cut the water heater breaker OFF at the electrical panel (should be a 30 amp double-pole breaker) or you will fry the elements, if it's electric.
Good Luck!
Old 03-16-03, 08:04 AM
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3 things I can think of.
1. the inpout cold valve is leaking. Try turning off the main instad of just the hot water valve.
2. You didn't open a hot water tap somewhere to allow air into the tank.
3. You have a secondary heating loop from the furnace as the heat source and it has a leak.
Old 03-16-03, 09:50 AM
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How much water is flowing out of the drain hose or drain ****??

If you have a decent rate of flow, the heater should drain in about 20 to 30 minutes. If you have been 12 hours, your incoming water is not shut off. Probably the gate valve above the heater needs to be replaced. Replace it with a full flow ball valve. But you will have to shut the water to the house off, both to get the WH drained and to replace the valve.

If you have no water flow out of the drain hose or drain ****, then the WH is loaded up with sediment, preventing the water from flowing. You may be able to open it enough to drain the WH by turning the incoming water ON with the drain **** open and see if the pressure will blow the junk out for you. Or, you may have to connect a hose to the drain **** and over to a hose bibb (requires a hose with 2 female ends, which you will have to make up yourself), open the drain **** and the hose bibb and see if you can backflush the junk out of your way. You will have to have no pressure in the WH, and probably open the T&P valve or remove the hot nipple. Once it's free, it will make a mess. But, a 40 gal. WH full of water weighs 400 lbs. -- you aren't going to move it until it is empty.
Old 03-16-03, 10:22 AM
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fixed (so far)

My brother came over (he says he is no longer gonna answer mom's calls about plumbing problems), and he had to replace the metal flex hose the brings the water into the tank. So far there has not been anymore leaks. When I talked to him about the heater taking so long to drain, he said that since the hot water was not shut off upstairs in the bathroom and kitchen, it was causing a backflow(?) and even though the cold water was shut off at the water heater, the tank still kept filling up with water. So it would fill as it drained, making for a never ending cycle.
He then found that the cold water shut off in the bathroom was leaking real bad (we have a plastic pan for the soap under it, and he say that it was filled with water) and frozen. so a new one had to be bought, and he put it on.
Then it was found that the main shut off is leaking (oh what fun we are having here).
Then I showed him the bathtub and he agreed that the caulk has to be replaced all around the tub, (possibility of more water damage), but replacing the caulk is something I can do.
Oh, yes, the sump pump that is stuck because of all the black grease. He cleans it, but that only lasts about a month, and the sump pump is stuck again. Think I found the source of all the black grease. Dam*** women and their bath beads and oil and stuff.
(I am female, but do not believe in soaking in god knows what. And when you are done then run the hot water to flush out the drain a bit)
Preventive maintenance is a concept that some people have a hard time comprehending.
I will stop now, as I am beginning to rant.

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