removing lead/oakum waste pipe seal

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  #1  
Old 03-15-03, 07:01 PM
Mark B
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removing lead/oakum waste pipe seal

I want to remove an existing lead drainpipe that is sealed into the flared fitting of the cast iron waste pipe it drains into and replace the setup with a Fernco fitting and ABS 2 inch drainpipe. My question: what is the easiest way to break the seal and remove this existing pipe? I tried heating it with a soldering torch to melt the lead, but nothing melted or moved after 15 laborious minutes of heating.

Right now, there is about 2 inches of the old lead pipe sticking out of the joint, where someone had cut it off and attached ABS 2 inch pipe with a neoprene Fernco sleeve. However, the lead pipe is narrower than the new ABS and it's clogging up from gunk accumulating around this narrower lead pipe. Any ideas appreciated.

Mark
 
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  #2  
Old 03-15-03, 08:10 PM
L
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A torch, as you now know, is a waste of time. Use either a flat screw driver or a 1/4" chisel and a hammer and simply start peeling the lead off from the top of the hub, working inwards as you go. It is going to take a little time, so be patient. Once you get about 2/3 of the lead out, you should be able to start working the pipe back and forth, and the last bit will simply pull out.
 
  #3  
Old 03-16-03, 02:27 PM
Mark B
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Thanks, Lefty. That sounds a lot safer than playing around with a torch in the confined space I'm working in. Time to make like Gumby and get down there and do it!
 
  #4  
Old 03-18-03, 04:10 PM
Mark B
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Lefty- I'm ready to title this adventure "The Lead Pipe to China Syndrome"! How far down should the lead packing normally go? I've gone down at least 1/2 inch in a hub fitting about 2 inches deep and still am only seeing lead. Spent about 3 hours in various yoga positions in the crawl space trying to get it done, but I'm beginning to think it's futile.

This house was built in the early 50's, and I wonder now if any other packing was used besides molten lead. Is it possible that the entire joint is filled with lead? I thought of lopping off the entire bell hub joint and using a no-hub Fernco, but there's not enough room and this would only leave about 1 inch of cast iron pipe above the next bell hub below it, which I want to leave alone.

Any other ideas from anyone else would be appreciated as well.

Mark
 
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Old 03-19-03, 07:37 PM
Mark B
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Lefty (and any other interested readers)- I came up with a different way to attack this little bugger: I took a beat up 1/4 inch drill bit that I was ready to toss out and drilled down into the lead and oakum with it , moving around the perimeter, then used the drill like a reamer, moving the bit around in the gap and up and down, essentially shaving off the remaining lead in curls with the bit. Then, I just dug all of this detritus out with a screwdriver and, viola! Out it came.

New problem: I found out I have XH cast iron pipe and the Fernco fixture I bought doesn't fit. It's designed for SV pipe, and no one around seems to carry XH Fernco products. Does anyone know of another manufacturer of these neoprene fixtures that might carry this type? Thanks.

Mark
 
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Old 03-19-03, 08:27 PM
L
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Mark --

I do decks, siding, patio covers, and windows for a living. I'm no plumber!!

XH & SV cast iron pipe? You are in deeper that I care to be. (I got away from that stuff while I was still in high school. Don't want to give away any secrets here, but the Beatles were still new!!)

Try this -- e-mail Ron (Plumber 2000) at: ron@atozplumbing.com

Just tell him Lefty sent you -- no, tell him OLD GUY sent you!!! Hell, tell him anything, but just make sure you tell him to come back and check out this post.
 
  #7  
Old 03-19-03, 09:42 PM
Mark B
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Deeper than I want to be too, Lefty! I found out that this difference in pipes results in different sized openings in the hub itself. I guess that most current applications are SV, so XH cast iron piping is not made anymore. All the good old stuff seems to be bigger and thicker-like candy bars were ;-)

I'll check in with the others, but hopefully the drill trick is something you can add to your itinerary of how-to lore. Thanks for your help.

Mark
 
  #8  
Old 03-20-03, 03:45 AM
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Extra heavy cast iron pipe is indeed still made today though not very often used.Here is a linkto a company that has XH gaskets but they will only sell to supply houses.....maybe you could contact them and they can direct you to a rep in your area?
XH Gaskets
 
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Old 03-20-03, 03:33 PM
Mark B
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Poorplmbr- Thanks for the info. I've since gone to a local plumbing 'guru' in Boulder CO who sold me a product called Veri-Tite, which looks just like the Multi-Tite hub connectors that are on the website you referenced. Do you recognize this as being the same manufacturer?

I dry-fitted it into the hub, with the 2" ABS pipe placed inside. I'm a bit concerned that it went in fairly easily into the cast iron hub (I just pressed it in by hand, no pounding or cursing!). It is snug, but not what I might think of as really tight for a seal. I ran a small bead of silicone caulk under the lip of the top flange that sits on the top rim of the cast iron hub rim. Hope that keeps any seepage out. Does that sound like a smart thing to do? I'm not sure what the chemical effect of silicone sealant would be on the neoprene, if any.

Hope all is well on LI (my home turf). Sitting in 3 feet of snow, thinking of summers on Robert Moses beach!

Mark
 
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