new Plumbing in warehouse.


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Old 04-17-03, 03:12 AM
Dahliadesign
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Question new Plumbing in warehouse.

I bought a wareshouse type building. it has a new well and the septic will be in soon. First does the stool need to be near the main stack? and if not how far away can I be from it? Also what is the best way to plumb in this concrete floor it is about 8" thick?
Thanks
 
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Old 04-17-03, 04:49 AM
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First, check with your Building Inspection Department for local codes, permits and inspection info before beginning.
In my opinion, you may be better off $-wise to raise the bathroom drainage system above the 8" concrete with floor framing, creating step-up restroom(s).
Drain lines need 1/4" of slope per linear foot.
Yes, toilets have to be within X-feet of a main drain/waste/vent stack, and all drain lines should be vented after the trap in some fashion. (A toilet has its own built-in trap).
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 04-17-03, 06:29 AM
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Mikes idea is a winner. Unless you really have to, don't plan on cutting up the concrete. If you do, plan on cutting about double what you think you need. It always goes that way. If you build up the floor, use 2X8s and all the plumbing and drainage can go under. If you can, stay near the main drain line and check those codes. Especially with respect to handicap access and L&I stuff. You do NOT want to have to do it over or modify after complete.

Ken
 
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Old 04-17-03, 05:51 PM
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I am a little confused here though... You bought a warehouse type building that has a new well and a new septic on the way... So it sounds like it never had plumbing... If that is the case, then there is no main except what you put in... If you are only putting in one toilet, then you run a straight line off of it to the septic tank... That IS the main... so then it is just a question of tying in your vent within 4 to 6 feet of the toilet (preferably 4) and tying in your other fixtures to the "main" that you are putting in... As for the concrete, if you are indeed putting in a new plumbing system then even though you may run the bathroom plumbing above the floor, if there is not plumbing below to tie onto, you would then have to run the plumbing across the floor until you got outside... I would just try to position the bathroom near the septic tank and then break up the concrete in the bathroom area to run the plumbing... Hope you know how to run a jackhammer...
 
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Old 04-18-03, 02:41 AM
Dahliadesign
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Thank you all for the response. I call it the main but it is the septic line. And I have to go into the concrete But that is the only way the plan for this place will work. But I am trying to hide the main stack. That is why I was wondering about the placement of it. Can I put a 90 in it and go out the side wall?
I am planning on having a 4" main line and then turn it to a 3" vent stack. I plan on cutting the floor with a wet saw first then hammering it out I think that will make it easier to repair. I will have 3 lines running to the main. The bathroom is going to be 10'x14' and then thier will be a loft above it. I will take any suggestions always. Thanks again for your help.
 
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Old 04-18-03, 04:48 AM
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Again, check with your local Building Inspection Department.
Your vent should equal your drain, for instance.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 04-18-03, 07:48 PM
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Well, first you need to run a line from the toilet to the septic system... Now this line would typically be 3" until it exits the building... about 3' or 4' from where the toilet sits, you need to put in a 3" x 2" wye and then that 2" should run under the concrete until the point where you want to turn up in a wall and head to the roof... That 2" will serve as the vent... Now in my area you can run that 2" pipe up behind the lavatory and drain the sink into it, thus making it a WET vent for the toilet... If you have a shower or tub, it can also be run into that vent portion of the run, in other words between the wye and the point where it turns up in the wall, but not on the portion from the wye to the septic tank or from the wye to the toilet... Now in my area, you only have to have one open air vent atleast 1/2 the size of the main line, and since the main should be 4" once it leaves the building, then you would need atleast one 2" open air vent which is why I say to run a 2" vent... What I really need is some idea of what fixtures you are actually putting in so that the sizing and tie ins can be described more correctly...
 
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Old 04-19-03, 01:32 AM
Dahliadesign
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Thanks again for the info. I will installing a large tub 84+ gallons. A stool, a 4'x4' shower, and then a sink. I plan on running a 3" stack and 2" drains except for the sink which will be
1 1/2" . After your reply I will have to rethink the layout of the bath but the dimensions will still be 10'x14'. So I can only Hook the stool and then nothing else between it and the septic? But I can hook everything after that? OK then thanks again so much Ragnar> I really appreciate it.
 
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Old 04-19-03, 11:48 AM
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Okay, that being the case, here is how I would run it... Run a 3" line from the toilet to the septic tank... That is your main line... about 3' from the toilet, cut in a 3" wye... now the side of that wye will run toward the location of the shower... when you get within 5' of the shower, cut in a 3" x 2" wye,... the 2" side will go over and have a p-trap and serve as a trap for the shower... The back side of the wye is 3" and will continue on as the vent, but now that you are beyond the shower drain, you can reduce it to 2" with a reducer coupling... Now run that 2" past the tub... when you get with 3.5' of the tub, cut in a 2" wye... One side going over to the tub drain again with a p-trap, and the other side continuing on toward the sink... Now, you turn up behind the sink centerline... at about 18" off the floor, turn out a 2" x 1.5" sanitary tee... The side of the tee comes out of the wall and will serve as the sink drain, the top of the sanitary tee should now continue on as 2" all the way out the roof...

That is all 4 fixtures vented with one 2" wet vent... In my area, that is perfectly code, and I can tell you from experience that it is very funtional... You will not have any problems with gurgling or backing up due to the venting... Now as for code, if you are having it inspected, you can always ask first just to be safe... Try to orient your fixtures so that the vent can run by them in the order I gave without crossing over... If you can accomplish that, you won't have to revent anything, which will save your having to cut as much concrete... Also, one more suggestion... I NEVER use a wet saw... First, I don't like all the dust, but secondly, since there will be a cold joint where the new concrete meets the old, it will never completely join like new concrete... It has been my experience that the jagged edges of a jackhammered trench makes a much better finished joint that a smooth sided concrete sawn joint...
 
 

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