retrofit plumbing

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Old 06-11-03, 05:21 PM
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retrofit plumbing

here is the scoop...

i have a laundry area and kitchen together...both the washing machine and kitchen sink is on the same drain line under the house...the washing machine has a vent and the kitchen sink has its own vent in through the roof...

both the drains are a black metal pipe (i don't know what kind of pipe)...they are 1 1/2 inches i believe...under the house (crawlspace), the two pipes connect to one long 1 1/2 inch black metal pipe and travel about 10 feet to the main 4 inch cast iron pipe...the black metal pipe screws into the cast iron...the 4 inch cast iron has every drain pipe from the bathrooms, toilets, showers, and kitchen and laundry drain connecting to it...the 4 inch cast iron pipe then exits the house and connects to 4 inch pvc...(i had an old orangeburg pipe for the main sewer line changed last summer)....the house was built in the 1960s...

i have had the kitchen and laundry vents and pipes augured 2 times by roto rooter....i have spent about 150 dollars just on having someone come out and fix a clog on these...last time i washed a load of clothes, during the spin cycle and drain cycle in the washing machine, the water/suds slowly backed up into the kitchen sink...indicating to me another clog...

i have spent too much money already unclogging...i want to try to replace the pipe with 2 inch pvc...

QUESTIONs: how do i connect the 2 inch pvc to the 4 inch cast iron???

also...i am able to take a piece of paneling off the wall behind the washer to access the vent there, but i don't want to tear out kitchen cabinets to access the kitchen vent...are studor vents good to use in this situation (in the cabinet)???

if you can think of something else i might need to know, please let me know...

thanks...michael
 
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Old 06-11-03, 05:39 PM
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Do you know if the fitting these lines connect at the mainline is a 2" inlet?

If it is, all you have to do is increase the drain lines from the washer and the kitchen sink to 2"

Increase them at the point where they both start to make there run to the mainline, this should solve your problem.

Doing it at these points will make it where you won't even have to cahnge the pipes in the walls.
 
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Old 06-11-03, 08:02 PM
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start the run???

i don't know if it is a 2" inlet where they connect. how can i tell easily??? from what it looks like, no...

also... what exactly does this mean???

"Increase them at the point where they both start to make there run to the mainline, this should solve your problem."

do you mean cut the old pipe off in the crawl space where it comes out of the floor and connect there via a fernco coupler???

does that solve the problem if i have the smaller pipe in the walls???

i had a plumber suggest the drilling a hole through the cabinet floor and putting a studor vent in the cabinet...do i not have to tie into the vent in the wall or can i simply use the smaller pipe already there and just tie on where it comes out of the floor...

also...if the inlet in the main is not 2", then how do i connect the pvc to the old cast iron???

what kind of pipe is the black metal pipe anyway...and how do i remove it...cut it, unscrew it...etc...

thanks...michael
 
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Old 06-12-03, 11:56 AM
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You tell by looking at the inlet hub, if it looks like a 2" ABS or PVC pipe will fit into it, then it is a 2' inlet.

Yes cut the pipe where they pass through the floor, then use 1-1/2" x 2" fernco's to increase the line sizes.

This in my own thinking, yes it should solve the troubles, afterall, you have said soap water comes up in the kitchen sink, increasing the line sizes, will not only allow more room in the drain line, but will also give you a smooth drain line to the mainline.

Do the pipes under the house 1st, if the problem gets solved no need to do anything in the walls.

If the inlet at the mainline is not 2" then you need to cut in a new 4 x 2 wye, or cut out the existing wye that the lines tie to right now and replace it with the fitting you will need.
 
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Old 06-12-03, 12:04 PM
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new wye

ok...everything you said sounded easy to do...

clarification please...the existing wye is 4" cast iron...do i just simply install a new cast iron piece or do i use a 4" pvc wye and use fernco couplers to connect the new pvc to the old cast iron...

thanks...

oh yeah...would it be wise to just take all the cast iron out and use a 4" pvc as the main trunk under the house...


also...i haven't heard you mention the studor vents under the cabinet...good or bad...

thanks...michael
 
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Old 06-12-03, 12:09 PM
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Studer vents are not code approved.

You can use a new PVC wye with fernco's for the transtion, you can replace all you want with pvc.
 
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