LP H2O tank problems

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  #1  
Old 06-17-03, 04:31 PM
Captain_John
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LP H2O tank problems

Hey all, I have a propane hot water tank that keeps blowing water out of the temperature/high pressure relief valve. I have lowered the temp setting and replaced the valve with no change in results.

I am thinking of replacing the entire unit with a new one, but wanted to check in here first.

My guess is the thing is staying on after hi limit. So does that mean I need a new gas valve as the thermostat is incorporated into it?

Anywhoooo, I have been considering replacing the whole thing as it is about 9 years old and we have lots of copper and iron in our water and it is unlikely to last much longer.

What is the deal with vents? I have a flexible plastic vent on my current unit. I know that in furnaces this indicates a high efficiency unit. What is the water tank equivalent?

Still perplexed.

Any suggestions?

CJ
 
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Old 06-17-03, 06:19 PM
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one answer at a time...

The btu rating will be on the side of the tank look for 30K to 50K for 30gallon to 50 gallon units. Larger than 50 will be a higher BTU rating. This is in reference to the furnace part.

Chances are, you have all kinds of junk built up in the t&P valve which is leaking. You also most likely have the thermostat encrusted with minerals and this is causing a low heat indication and making the unit burn longer and actually making more hot water.

Cost of the T&P valve is not much, gas valve is much higher. Depending on where you live, you may not be able to buy the gas control valve because this part should be sold to professional plumbers/gasfitters only. Also dependent on this is if you live in any area that has building codes. Usually, only qualified people are allowed to install water heaters, as a permit is required.

This being said, back to reality. I'd look at a new unit for the cost involved. Not only in just parts, but the new units are much more energy efficient.

One last thought....If you live in a mobile home, you absolutely, positively need a water heater for mobile homes. These are made different and have a total different clearance level on wall surfaces and outside air reqirements than a "regular" water heater.
More questions, problems, ask away and someone will answer you...good luck and let us know how you did.
 
  #3  
Old 06-17-03, 07:11 PM
Captain_John
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Thanks for the reply! I am now planning on replacing the entire unit.

With regard to the direct vent exhaust that is on my current unit, how will I know if the unit I am looking at is suitable for a 3" flexible vent?


Also...

What do you think about the tankless units? Will they corrode as quickly as my tank unit did? Am I just wasting my dough to go that way?

CJ
 
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Old 06-18-03, 04:46 PM
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Ask about the flex vent when you buy the new unit.

Tankless water heaters, good and bad experience with them. Used in commercial applicatiopns with just a little hot water needed, work out great. Only have heard bad about residential units for one reason or another. I'm sure there are people who have had nothing but good experience with their home units.
One thing to think about with a point of use water heater is to make sure the electrical supply has a large enough wire to carry the load. It's a distance vs. amp thing that electricians know all about.

More questions ask away, someone other than myself may answer them...

good luck...
 
  #5  
Old 06-23-03, 08:41 PM
Captain_John
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Thanks again. I just installed a direct vent unit. It seems to be running well!

I installed an expansion tanks on the cold water feed side and a vacuum breaker as detailed in the manufacturers propagana.

On my initial startup, the relief valve was purging a bit of air and it made a bit aggravated. I am hoping it isn't doing the same thing as the old unit is!

I just took a shower and the thermostat needs to be turned up. It is preset at 125 degrees. What do you usually set them at?

I plumbed the relief valve into a 5 gallon pail to monitor it's performance.

CJ
 
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