Leaking toilet around the base at the floor

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  #1  
Old 06-18-03, 05:27 PM
BigDinNewYork
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Leaking toilet around the base at the floor

I have been having problems with the toilet leaking around the base at the floor. I have pulled the toilet and cleaned up really well but the floor gasket or flange, not sure what it is called, is extremely rusty and where the hold down bolts are it doesn't appear they can tighten down very tight. My question is, how can I replace that flange or is possible?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-18-03, 07:23 PM
Jimsch
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Hope this helps

Hopefully the problem is in a bad wax ring. Did you replace it w a new one? Carefully reseat the toilet so the new wax isn't damaged. Use new bolts and make sure they stay in place in the channels on the flange. If they slide around they may not be properly tightening since the bolt head come out of the groove of the flange. That said let's say inspecting the problem shows the flange is rusted and maybe even broken. It sounds like the waste pipe is cast iron. In this case the flange can be replaced but it's gonna be some work. It can be done yourself though...

Here's what you'll need for 3" cast iron:

a section of 3" schedule 40 PVC, about 4 ft
3 to a 4" PVC closet bend
4" glue on flange
a rubber fitting called a no hub clamp, 3"
new bolts
new wax ring
new toilet supply tube-it's just easier to replace it. Try to get the flexible type.

duct tape the drain to prevent falling debris.

Concrete floor=sledgehammer
wood floor=sawzall

Open the floor to reveal the fitting (called a closet bend)
Make sure you open enough room to get to about 12-18" of pipe past the fitting, more if you can get it.
Cut the fitting off with the sawzall.
Now you have a stub to run fresh drain pipe to the toilet.
Usual space from the wall for a toilet is 12" to the center of the flange.
Place the PVC closet bend and measure from the stub to the elbow for a short piece of pipe.
put the elbow on the short piece and check for placement when set up to the cut end- will the flange be in the proper place?
place the no hub clamp or similar rubber connector on the PVC end first and tighten.
roll the other end of the rubber clamp back over itself and connect the section of PVC to the cast by placing the pipe and unrolling the cuff of the clamp over the end of the pipe, tighten.
check the closet bend again-measure.
glue the closet bend and use a bullet level to be sure its rotated to level.
Measure for stub up to the floor level, cut and check it w/ placement of the flange.

Looks good, glue it together-stub up and flange. Make sure that you glue the flange so the large holes for the bolts are NOT at 3 and 9 o'clock in direction as the bolts may not be properly placed.

Close the floor
New bolts and wax ring
reconnect water supply

Lot's of work but I estimate 1/2 day for a pro.
Not hard, just labor intensive.

I think I got it all.
 
  #3  
Old 06-19-03, 03:15 AM
Mike Swearingen's Avatar
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Cool

You should be able to get a flange repair kit (one is called Span-A-Break by Quik-Fix) to attach to the existing flange in lieu of replacing it.
Check at plumbing supply houses.
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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