slow leak bathrm faucet


Old 07-07-03, 02:25 AM
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Question slow leak bathrm faucet

I just installed:

1) New bathroom sink faucet (generic H/C twisters type)
2) (2) new spigots--connected to copper repipe
3) (2) new 1/2 to 3/4 threaded plastic type water supply hoses

I followed instructions, used Teflon tape on ALL Threads,
tightend accordingly...........
yet I get this itty bitty leak from the top
of the hoses (connected to the new fixture's threaded 3/4 " pipe)
Is this going to eventually go away?

****(footnote) Last year when I installed (2) 6" extention pipes to my outdoor sprinkler spigots, I noticed a small "sweaty leak" , which eventually
went away--I also used Teflon tape to the threads.
8 months ago, I replaced a rubber washer on a badly leaking ornamental (rabbit) outdoor spigot , which afterwards, had a slow drip which eventually went away as well..
Now is there a "seat-in or breaking in period" that I am unaware of,
or am I just not noticing due to egomaniac
DIY denial - or psychological problems????---from California
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Old 07-07-03, 03:22 AM
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Minerals and minute particles in the water will usually plug pinhole seep leaks, but things are not designed that way. Nothing should leak when first repaired to begin with.
How are you wrapping the Teflon tape on the threads?
Teflon tape should be wrapped 2-3 flat, tight wraps clockwise only as the end of the threaded fitting would face you. Otherwise, it might unravel a bit when you make up the fittings, if you wrapped it the other way, causing a small leak.
Old 07-07-03, 05:35 PM
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I just talked to this guy at work and he said he had the same problem...did things by the book and the slo-leak stopped in
4 days....I re did the Teflon as you stated and the hoses still
have a slo-leak. It only does it (small tear drops) when the faucets are on. Its weird! I tightened the damn things as well.
I talked to an old plumber and he told me to leave a flat cookie
sheet under the pipes for the time being, until the leaking stops.
I asked him aout the mystery and he said he couldnt explain it
either, but says it will take 4 days to "seal" whatever that means.
Here at my workplace, there are many DIY'ers and they are split,
as well, some say it shouldnt leak at all and 2 of them say give it a couple of days.
Old 07-07-03, 06:38 PM
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I always do it to not leak, with only an exception or two, if I KNOW that it will seal.
Everyone has their own way.
Whatever works, works. Right?
Good Luck!
Old 07-07-03, 07:04 PM
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Only leaks when the faucet is running? If this is the case then it is leaking above the supply connections and past the stems.Most of these i find the areator leaking down inside the faucet were you cant see.Then running down to the supply line making it appear the supply is leaking.Tighten the areator and see if this stops the problem.If supply lines leak they will leak constantly not just when water is turned on.
Old 07-09-03, 02:23 AM
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Tonight I followed PLUMRICH's advice:

1. Tightened the areator---still leaked.
2. Unscrewed nozzle cap and removed plastic areator---some water gushed out (faucet knobs turned off) Ah-hah! So that's where it was coming from!---Turned on water, but a bit of water still leaked.
3. Unscrewed nozzle cap and removed the screen, left washer on.---No more leaks! Hooray! Water comes out sloppy like an outdoor spigot, but at least it doesnt drip anymore.

Summary: Why both hoses seemed to leak as I only turned on the cold
water and it leaked only when I had the water running was a big mystery, now I know why. Also, I was calling the new faucets and hoses (#@##$%**&*) names but the water was really coming from the faucets' clogging areated tip.
A plugged up bit of water was returning down the lines OUTSIDE
of the 2 faucet pipes down the hoses, thus making it look like the hose
ends at the faucet connection was leaking.
Also, the "wait 4 days and it will stop leaking" philosophy is now thrown
out the window. Thanks all for the advice and especially Mr Plumrich.
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