replacing galvanized pipe with copper

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  #1  
Old 09-08-03, 10:10 PM
TJK
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replacing galvanized pipe with copper

I have a bathroom that is being remodeled on the second floor of my house. Since the wall that holds the galvanized supply pipes is open, I want to take this opportunity to replace them with copper. There are four existing 1/2 pipes that feed hot and cold water to the tub and sink, all ran in the same space I need to make the new run. The toilet is fed in a different wall. I have started removing the galvanized pipe, but I have a few questions.

I want to use 1/2 flexible type L and run one pipe for cold and one for hot to feed the tub and sink. Is this a good choice? How easy is it to kink? If it does bend and deform a bit, do I need to replace the entire run?

How much protection do I need from the galvanized pipes that are still in the wall? I was able to get one out, but the other three are still in there. They can come out, but it is difficult to do.

How can I secure the pipe at the bottom and top of the run?

Thanks for any help!
 
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  #2  
Old 09-08-03, 11:07 PM
Liquid plumber
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I remember my Grandfather replumbing his bathroom with this kind of pipe. As I recall, it can be bent fairly easily without being kinked. And unlike sweated copper, the flared joints are easy to make and very reliable. But if you plan to snake this pipe through passages where you can't easily bend the pipe with your hands, I would recommend PEX instead.

Robert
 
  #3  
Old 09-09-03, 05:29 AM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: KY/OH
Posts: 3,523
The way I am about to tell you is more difficult than what your describing. I would suggest not using flexible copper but rigid Type M copper pipe.


I understand that rolling soft copper is much easier, but you will instantly be fighting the pipe by trying to bend pipe numerous times to take the way of turning. This method will not allow you to make sharp turns.



If you were to do this work with soldered connections, your following the method used by millions of people in this area for decades.





Takes more time, requires more effort and skill, but in the long run, this will guarantee you a more reliable piping system.







The transition of copper to galvanized shoud be made by use of dielectric unions.

This will slow down electrolysis of dissimilar metals. In other words, the two metals do not get along with each other.





Every time I have had to work on piping with soft copper involved, I have been asked by the homeowner to staighten the mess out and put rigid piping in to make it uniform and clean.




So I guess it does matter what it looks like behind the walls before you close them up.
 
  #4  
Old 09-09-03, 04:01 PM
TJK
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I wasn't very clear about a couple of issues that I should have been. The first is that the second floor walls are half out (tub still in), but the first floor wall is still in. In addition, the wall that I have to run in is a load bearing wall. The wall actually sits on a beam made of two 2x12s, so I can only enter the bottom at about 45 degrees. I would not have very good access to the first 45 corner that I would have to sweat. Once I get beyond this first bend, it is a straight shot to the bathroom.

The pipe would emerge close to the faucet side of the back of the bathtub, and the faucet wall is open on both sides. My plan was to terminate the flexible pipe in the space between the back of the tub and the wall, and run rigid over to the sink.

Any further advice?
 
  #5  
Old 09-09-03, 09:13 PM
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Originally posted by TJK
Any further advice?
Use PEX. It's almost as easy to snake as electrical wire. Flexible copper will almost certainly kink if you try to force it to bend around a corner by stabbing it in or yanking on it.

Robert
 
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