High Water Pressure?


Old 09-27-03, 07:03 AM
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Question High Water Pressure?

I've been in my house for 6 years, and continue to have an occasional plumbing issue. I'm on my third pressure release valve on the hot water heater. I had one toilet float replaced, and now I'm needing one in my second toilet because after it shuts off, water continues to slowing go into the tank and eventually a slow trickle goes down the overflow (which is what was happening with the first toilet).

I had the water company come out and check my water pressure at the outside faucet. They say it is 120 psi. This seems somewhat high to me; although, those pressure release valves on the hot water heater go up to 150 psi. Anyway, do you think a pressure regulator on the line outside is needed?

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Old 09-27-03, 07:13 AM
Plumber2000's Avatar
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 5,841
Yes you need a pressure reducer outside, most houses can operate at 40 psi, pressure reducer valves are set at 50 - 55 psi out of the box.
Old 04-19-04, 11:06 PM
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
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Do you *need* a regulator?

Do you really need a regulator or could you just close the valve feeding the house a bit?
Old 04-20-04, 05:07 AM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
Posts: 10,952

If there is 120 psi at the street, then a Pressure Reducing Valve is needed. Residential pressure doesn't need to be above 60 psi, or it may create problems.
Old 04-20-04, 05:25 AM
notuboo's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 1,780
When you install the PRV, and you do need one, try to install it so one of your hose bibs will have full pressure of the water main.
I hope this is clear. You will find that washing your car with 40 to 60 psi harder than with the pressure at 120. You actually see this all the time when you do service plumbing in people's homes.

Good luck...
Old 04-20-04, 07:24 AM
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When you install the pressure relief valve and you really need one, most if not all have a check valve and that means you have a closed system after installing them. Then you have to install an expansion tank on the cold water feed line to the water heater or the T/P valve will open when the heater comes on due to increased pressure. That's because things get bigger when heated and that includes the water in the heater.

High pressure caiuses water hammer and that damages fixtures, as you see. It can also damage plumbing.

Gary Slusser
Old 04-25-04, 05:57 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: KY/OH
Posts: 3,523


Read this link.

Closing the valve partially only works when there is a downstream fixture allowing water to pass.

When the water is shut off and none is being used, that pressure climbs right back up to the original pressure.

It's like stepping on a hose and not completely sealing the water off to the end with an attachment. Eventually, that pressure seeps by the spot you stepped on, and the pressure is back at the nozzle.

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