We moved into this house 4.5 years ago. The house is about 26 years old.

In the past week (last night and last Tuesday), we had lots of rains. The basement near the sump pump area got flooded. The water came out from the two little holes of the sump pump. The two holes (about .25 inch in diameter) are located in the vertical pipe, under the motor and above the T conjunction (of the pump's vertical pipe and the horizontal drain pipe leading towards the basement wall/outside). The holes are in the opposite direction of each other. Are they designed to be like that?

The "leaking" occurred a few times in the past few years. Due to the fact that it was not serious, I did not pay much attention. The problem in the past week seemed very serious, lots of water in basement. I think something is totally wrong.

I searched the messages under the Plumbing here, and did some diagnosis. The drain pipe is not blocked. The float seems to work fine. The pump can start and stop by itself. Water can come out of the drain pipe. It APPEARs that the pump does not have enough horse power to push the water out of the pipe, quick enough. Since I am not an expert on this, could someone help? I greatly appreciate your kindness.

Some information on the sump pump - Sump Pump Duty from Emerson Motor Division, St. Louis MO
Model S55NXEKJ-3043
H.P. 1/3
R.P.M. 3450
S.I. 1.0
PH 1
Code N
A. 6.1
Thermally Protected

Another thing I noticed that's different is that the top of our sump pump is sealed with concrete, leveled with basement floor. I can only see the vertical pipe sticking out, along with a thin rubber pipe (I think that functions as a switch or float. But not sure). This makes impossible to look inside the sump. Is this commonly seen?

Is it time to call a plumber or I can solve the problem (with your inputs) ?

Sorry for the long note. Thank you so much for your attention.

Haiwei

 

A plumber came and said the pump (DryMaster) is malfunctioning due to a worn seal in shaft assembly. He (his company) asks for $634 to replace the pump. He said the new pump would cost about $250-280. He said our sump pump (DryMaster) is different from normal pumps - it needs adjustment during the installation. The top of our sump is sealed, with only the pump pipe/tube sticking out.

Is this an OK deal? Over $600 for the pump and installation seems too expensive. Can someone give me some advice?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Haiwei

 

You can replace the pump with a submersable with a float switch for a lot less. There is no reason to stay with an overpriced pump. They are relatively easy to replace. You may have to cut into the pit, and that might explain some of the cost. Unless this is actually a sewage ejection pump, there is not really a good reason to seal it up.

 

Thanks for your response, brickeyee. I really appreciate it.

I don't think this is a sewage ejection pump. It pumps water out of the basement sump.

The plumber did not say or hint whether he would need to smash the concrete (the cover) in the installation. I thought he would not need to do so as he said the pump is somehow different - DryMaster style ( I am not sure I really understand this kind of pump; I searched the web but did not get info on it).

Did you mean that I or the plumber has to smash the concrete cover to get to the pit? It seems to be a big project, though I am not sure.

I just opened the pump, disconnected the discharge pipe, looking for any apparent problem there.

I am not sure about the two way check valve (?). It does not look good to me. Can it cause the water leaking problem that I have?

Your information is greatly appreciated.

Haiwei

 

When in doubt, get several bids and ask lots of questions.

If you feel, after asking questions, that you can replace the pump. Write back with specific questions and we can asnwer them.

The water leak you mentioned on the pump made me think of 2 things, either a weep hole that shows when seals have been ruptured or holes installed into the discharge line for vacuum relief when the pump is off. 1 is good and the other is bad.

Anyway, I would recommend at least 2 more bids.
Good luck and let us how your project turns out...

 

Thanks a lot for you response, notuboo.

I meant to open the motor, not the pump, the things that is above the basement floor. I cannot see the pit.

I just bought a new check valve, and put it on. I cannot really test it as the pit doesn't seem to have much water in it. Turn on the motor to the "Test" option, the motor ran but no water pumping out of the drain.

I might use the garden hose to pour some water next to the outside basement wall or wait for the next rain to really test it.

The two small holes I mentioned are weep holes, I guess. They are not on the discharge line; they are on the vertical pipe just under the motor. So I assume they are good to be there.

I will keep you updated on the progress.

Thanks so much for your response. I really appreciate it.

Haiwei

 

I post this WAYyyy after the fact since there really is very little information on these pumps out there. Drymaster Sump Pumps are made by Watermaster, A company in Redford Michigan. They have a competitor, also in Michigan. These pumps are called sumpless sump pumps as there is no catch basin. They are inserted into a 4" PVC pipe that is connected to your drain field.

They are 'safer' in the sense there is no pit cover to remove and any possibility of young children falling into them.

The problem you mentioned is common to these pumps as they age. The weep holes as you refer to them are in the steel 'inner pipe' after it passes out of the outer plastic sleeve. You'll notice the discharge is in the outer sleeve.

No water is supposed to enter the inner pipe but once it does, it will exit at those holes instead of continuing up into the motor ruining both parts of the pump. Those pumps can be rebuild with a new impeller/seal assembly but you should be aware that like many products, once one part fails, all too often other portions are close behind.

The prices mentioned seem a little on the high side, unless of course your plumber was called in after-hours or on holiday time. These pumps are more expensive than a run-of-the-mill submersible but are easy to swap out. Once you have the new one, simply reset the pipe clamp to the same height as the old one so the sliding cap will set the pumps end at the same depth. Reconnect the discharge piping and plug it in.

We always recommend a new check valve as was already mentioned since they are inexpensive and most people only want to mess with the job once.

 

johnbpro,

I saw your post in regards to the drymaster sumpless sump pump. I have one of these which was installed in 1978. I bought the house a year ago and realized it only worked when manaully turning it on. When in automatic mode, it just never kicks on. Can you recommend what I need to fix or where to even get the parts. There really is no information on these types of pumps on the net. I do live in Michigan where they are supposedly made. I could call the company, but before I spend a lot of money fixing it through them, I want to see if I can do it myself.

Thanks in advance.

 

Hi John

I doubt you will get any response from the previous posters as they are at least a year old. Whenever joining in on someone elses post always check the date first. You would be better off starting your own thread so others will see it and jump in to help.

Are you talking about a pump you just put on the floor and after about 1/4" it is supposed to pump?
Some of those use sensors to just sense the water and complete a circuit like a thermostat to tell the pump to start. Some of them use a pressure type switch but not usually for that kind of pump. A lot of those pumps are not designed with any switch in the and are made to plug in as used method.

 

Just wanted to let everyone know that you can call Watermaster, Inc. anytime with questions regarding the Drymaster Sumpless Pump. They are willing to help with whatever your concerns are. They are in Redford, Michigan (313) 255-3930. This is a very honest company (family owned and operated for over 40 years). Thank you.

 

I too have a DryMaster that only ran when switched to manual mode. I contacted Utica Pump in downtown Utica Michigan (M59 and Van Dyke ). They had a replacement pressure switch for the DryMaster @ 120 dollars. I installed the new switch and the pump has been running on automatic mode since. The person at Utica Pump stated these brand of pumps have a very long life. My pump looks to be at least 20 years old.

 

In regards to replacing parts on the Drymaster Sumpless Pump, I went directly to Water Master, Inc. in Redford, MI to buy my parts and it was much cheaper than you mentioned. They are very helpful and are willing to help anyway that they can and they also manufacture the pumps right there as well as repairing them. They are "Made in Michigan" ! Give them a call (313-255-3930).