moving basement ceiling gas pipe
#1
moving basement ceiling gas pipe
I'm finishing off the basement and have a problem with the current placement of the gas pipe feed. Coming from the meter the feed runs along a joist above the loist line and then elbows down below the joist line and runs accross many joists to where is elbows over to the furnace and splits to the other appliances.
Question: What is the best way to eliminate the pipe accross the joists as I want to sheet rock the ceiling and have very limited ceiling height. Can I take it over to the basement wall and through the outer wall studs then back up to where the current furnace feed takes off? This would eliminate the pipe from the ceiling which is what I want, but I'm unsure if there are problems I'm not thinking about with this solution.
Check out the picture at http://family.teemaster.com/Basement...pe_project.htm
Any suggestions or other good ideas would be most appreciated.
Thanks
Question: What is the best way to eliminate the pipe accross the joists as I want to sheet rock the ceiling and have very limited ceiling height. Can I take it over to the basement wall and through the outer wall studs then back up to where the current furnace feed takes off? This would eliminate the pipe from the ceiling which is what I want, but I'm unsure if there are problems I'm not thinking about with this solution.
Check out the picture at http://family.teemaster.com/Basement...pe_project.htm
Any suggestions or other good ideas would be most appreciated.
Thanks
#2
You would have to notch the outer wall studs in order to install the gas line into the wall. I would suggest moving the gas line as close as possible to the beam in the house and build a small soffit to cover this gas line or any other lines..........such as electric or telephone to make a chaseway for future use. Notching exterior walls is not recommended in your situation.
#3
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Not sure how practical this would be in your situation, but...
There are rules that guide boring into joists. Normally you avoid the inner third of span (right?), and the bottom of joists. Notching the bottom of a joist is a big no-no.
You might consider using a right-angle drill to bore a series of holes to fit the pipe into, IF you could slide the pipe into them. Most likely, an access hole from outside the basement.
The holes would need to be extremely accurate. Perhaps start with the outer access hole and feed the pipe in, allowing the pipe to locate the next hole to be drilled. Strictly follow the rules of boring/not boring joists.
Some holes would simply be access holes to allow the pipe to be properly located, but when you were done, the pipe would be out of the way.
There are rules that guide boring into joists. Normally you avoid the inner third of span (right?), and the bottom of joists. Notching the bottom of a joist is a big no-no.
You might consider using a right-angle drill to bore a series of holes to fit the pipe into, IF you could slide the pipe into them. Most likely, an access hole from outside the basement.
The holes would need to be extremely accurate. Perhaps start with the outer access hole and feed the pipe in, allowing the pipe to locate the next hole to be drilled. Strictly follow the rules of boring/not boring joists.
Some holes would simply be access holes to allow the pipe to be properly located, but when you were done, the pipe would be out of the way.
#4
Group Moderator
You can usually drill holes in the center 1/3 of your joist. As Steve B. mentioned, DO NOT drill, cut or notch the bottom 1/3 of your floor joist. That's the part that carries most of the load.
There are a couple manufacturers of flexible gas piping. It's a corrugated stainless steel tube wrapped in a plastic covering. I like TiteFlex which is accepted by most codes. With flexible piping you can drill the holes in your joists and they do not have to be perfectly aligned. Some codes will also allow the use of soft copper tubing but it is easy to kink and damage. The TiteFlex is more expensive, but far superior to soft copper.
There are a couple manufacturers of flexible gas piping. It's a corrugated stainless steel tube wrapped in a plastic covering. I like TiteFlex which is accepted by most codes. With flexible piping you can drill the holes in your joists and they do not have to be perfectly aligned. Some codes will also allow the use of soft copper tubing but it is easy to kink and damage. The TiteFlex is more expensive, but far superior to soft copper.