Toilet flange too high

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  #1  
Old 11-01-03, 06:36 AM
ae
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Toilet flange too high

Long story short -

We replaced a bathroom floor with the net result of the floor dropping 3/4 inch from where it used to be. Now the toilet flange is that much too high.

I have seen on the web a product called a toilet floor plate (quikfixplumbing.com I think) that essentially is a decorative plate that goes completely under the toilet base and then some to raise the toilet up. They recommend using a caulk between this plate and the flange for a seal and then a wax ring between the toilet base and the decorative plate. It sounds way easier than either dropping the waste pipe (accessible in the basement) due to the configuration of the waste pipe just under the toilet.

Does anyone have any experience with this toilet floor plate? Warnings or advise?
 
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  #2  
Old 11-01-03, 02:33 PM
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I would be very curious to see this product. I tried several spelling versions of quickfixplumbing.com with no luck. I have been setting toilets for over 20 years and I have not come across anything like this. (doesn't mean it don't exist.) Now if you want to "Mickey Mouse"the installation of your toilet you could use 1/2" plywood for the same result. It would however look like mickey and goofy did the job
However, my best advise to you would be drop the closet ring to the proper height approx 1/4" above finished floor level and set you toilet for a professional looking job.
No matter what material your toilet drain is, it can be cut from above and a new closet ring installed.

Mike
 
  #3  
Old 11-01-03, 02:45 PM
trenchlessman
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Back in my younger day I used to have to put a marble slab on the floor first then the flange then the wax seal then the toilet. well you already have the flange down. Can you tell me what kind of material your flange is made out of. can you take the flange off? cast iron just break it off. you then can break the extra cast iron off with a cresant wrench. now you can use a 2 turn floor flange (4" pipe only) made of PVC and insert it into the 4" cast iron and turn and tighten and screw it to the floor. so if we knew the material, and the size we may be able to help you more., Or call a professional licenced plumber.
 
  #4  
Old 11-01-03, 03:31 PM
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I have used a heavy plastic product that comes in 4' x 8' sheets up to 2" thick, and all sizes and thicknesses between. It's called "Santana", (not the rock group) by Santana Plastics.
This company also make plastic partitions for commercial - industrial type seetings for restrooms.

Last as long as plastic and a lot lighter than Marble, which I have also seen.

Try searching for this on the web, or in a local big box store.
 
  #5  
Old 11-02-03, 09:10 AM
ae
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To answer Repairman22 (Mike)
The website is quickfixplumbingproducts.com
Sorry I missed the "products" part.

This website doesn't answer some of my own questions like how high does this plate actually raise the toilet (critical don't you think) and it also doesn't say what this plate is made of so I am planning on calling during business hours this week. It looks like porcelain but I am guessing it is really plastic. Regardless, it looks better in the pictures than the Mickey Mouse version with plywood (an option my husband and I discussed but hoped to avoid).

To answer Trenchlessman, the flange itself is PVC, connecting to a PVC drain. The flange is screwed into the floor. I haven't tried taking it off - I guess I was assuming it was glued to the PVC drain. I was hoping to not mess things up more than they already appear but if you think I shoud try to remove the flange itself, I could take of the screws and go from there.

If the suggestion is to get off the flange and cut the pipe from above, exactly how would one go about doing that? I have used a hacksaw for exposed pipes but I couldn't use a hacksaw here - the floor would surely be in the way.

Thanks for the help.
 
  #6  
Old 11-02-03, 09:45 AM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
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Cool

This is PVC flange and pipe exposed in the basement?
The flange should be flush on top of and anchored to the finished floor level with only the thickness of the flange above floor level.
To lower the flange properly, I would cut the pipe below the flange in the basement, and use PVC primer and glue and fitting to seal it back together (or you can use a Fernco coupling).
Here is the Quik-Fix site: http://www.quickfixplumbingproducts.com/
Good Luck!
 
  #7  
Old 11-02-03, 10:11 AM
trenchlessman
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OK now if the flange is 4" (pipe is 4") then take an inside cutter and cut off the flange. then you can get a 3" floor flange (hub) and glue it inside the 4" pipe. If the pipe is 3" you would need a professional plumber to change the flange from above. If you have a basement you should be able to lower the the flange.
 
  #8  
Old 11-02-03, 04:39 PM
ae
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Unhappy

The drain pipe that connects to the flange measures 3" on the inside.

This drain takes an immediate turn (less than 90 degrees) to join a y-shaped part of the waste pipe just under the joist. There is no room to cut above the Y - lots of fittings cover all but the curved pipe. That means I would have to cut the drain below the Y in order to drop the flange, and then also cut the other pipe that is draining into the Y, adding a bend to this other pipe to accomodate the small drop. Seems like a lot of cuts and splices.

If you don't think there is any alternative, I will go for it but I am still hoping for that magic wand. We should have put in a ceramic floor, eh?
 
  #9  
Old 11-02-03, 06:57 PM
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: KY/OH
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I agree totally with Old Guy; that is alot to make up 3/4". Depends what you want the finished product to look like, I would take the time and remove the piping and set it the way it should be; this way you never have to worry about it years down the road.
 
  #10  
Old 11-02-03, 07:00 PM
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Northeastern NC On The Albemarle Sound
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Cool

In that case, I would cut out the flange and replace it.
Use a hacksaw blade (wrapped with cloth or use a heavy glove), and cut the flange into quarters, being careful not to cut into the pipe.
Chip it out with a hammer and chisel. Don't let any pieces parts
fall into the drain (stuff a rag down it).
Sand and clean the pipe and the new flange, prime and PVC glue the new flange down as described above, and anchor it securely flush to the floor.
The new wax ring should seal fine, if you level the toilet (shim if necessary).
Good Luck!
 
  #11  
Old 09-06-09, 02:53 PM
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I've also been to this web site and I have some questions about the toilet floor plate listed on this site as well. It doesn't give the measurements of the floor plate and I have to have that information to see if it's big enough to go under my toilet. The web site doesn't list any product description like what it's made of, dimensions, or anything else. Does anyone else know of any places that sell toilet floor plates? I've only seen one other web site that sells them - ::: SACHWIN Products, Inc. :::. It doesn't list how to purchase the toilet floor plate so I guess you have to call them to place an order. If anyone comes across another web site or store that sells toilet floor plates, please let me know because I've tried searching on Home Depot's and Lowes' web sites and they don't carry such a product.
 
  #12  
Old 09-06-09, 03:04 PM
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khaas...6 y/o thread....since you found your way here..maybe it would be better if you started your own thread and explained exactly what the problem is?
 
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