how do to cut & replace cast iron drain pipe?


  #1  
Old 12-24-99, 02:44 AM
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I live in an old house and I have a cast iron elbow in the bathroom floor that broke. I have the pipe exposed but it is in a tight spot. I want to cut it out and go PVC from that point on.

My question is: what do I cut it with, (tool recommendations and blade types??) and are there any gotchas with just using a rubber coupling to join the pvc and iron once I do have it out?

Thanks in advance.
Gary
 
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Old 12-24-99, 02:11 PM
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Im guessing this elbow was serving the
toilet.I have a pair of ratcheting
cutters the will cut cast iron like butter
if the pipe isnt rotton. If you have the
clearance I recommend renting a pair if
possible. They do make blades coated with
diamond dust that fit in a reciprocating
saw that hardly ever work and are time
consuning but sometimes this is what it
takes. And yes a rubber boot is fine or
you can use a pvc no-hub adapter and a
no-hub band to re-connect,this will be
a little more ridgid.If the cast iron
breaks jagged you can use a crescent wrench
(you know ,smooth jaw,adjustable)too snap
off the jagged edges,It works really well.
Need more advice?I'll answer it.Robert
 
  #3  
Old 12-12-08, 05:39 AM
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Cutting 4" cast iron toilet drain pipe

I'm wanting to relocate the toilet drain, what is the best way to cut cast iron pipe? can it be cut?
 
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Old 12-12-08, 08:03 AM
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best way is to rent the chain type wheel cutter mentioned above. Check your local hardware store to see if they have one to rent you. Very easy, just tighten the chain around the pipe and go round and round or back and forth til the pipe snaps in two.
 
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Old 12-12-08, 08:31 PM
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I use an angle grinder with a diamond blade that cuts through cast iron like a hot knife through cold butter.


I own a snap cutter but it has its limitations along with the fact that when it "snaps" it can expand your work detail if the piping is questionable where it is to be cut, or the bottom of the piping is thinning out, causing the chain to collapse and cause and uneven break.


Been there done that.
 
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Old 12-12-08, 10:28 PM
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I use a sawzall blade to cut in tight areas but that takes some time and quite a few blades. A quicker way is to use a 4" grinder with a carberrundem 4" wheel for steel. There is a trick to this. Cut a portion of the top ( SAFTEY GLASS/ GOGLES REQUIRED)of the pipe and take a hammer to brake some of it away and grind again and so on to get the grinder in. The snap wheel cutter is great on new and some old but, It might be to risky to use and if is already old wooo! More broken pipe again. The quickest way if I have access is we use our 12" cutoff saw in a unfinshed basemsnt and heat sheild around the pipe area for spark, fire control. A little exausty but cuts in seconds.
 
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Old 12-14-08, 06:33 PM
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I just wanted to say that based upon the replies to this thread, I went out and bought a $60 DeWalt Angle Grinder (28110) and a couple of blades.

Today I put it to the test and it worked like a charm.
A sincere thank you to the two experts and whomever resurrected this post.
 
 

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