Moving pipes
#1
02-05-00, 05:33 AM
We live in a house built in 1911, and natural settling had caused some sloping floors. There is an area just under the steps from the kitchen to a landing that slopes considerably, and requires a header and additional support.
The problem is that the water supply pipes to the stationary tub are in the way. How difficult is it to cap those pipes, move the sink about 3 feet (there's sufficient room) and then tap into the lines?
Thanks!
The problem is that the water supply pipes to the stationary tub are in the way. How difficult is it to cap those pipes, move the sink about 3 feet (there's sufficient room) and then tap into the lines?
Thanks!
#3
02-05-00, 10:29 AM
Facing north, the 1/2 copper pipes come from the east. The water heater is in the north east corner,
The pipes run parallel to the floor joists and T off to provide water to a stationary tub.
Hopefully, this little diagram will come through:
Water Heater
|
| | |
___________|____|______________________|
The question is, how difficult would it be to remove the T's and cap the pipes, then tap back into the pipes after the tub has been moved to the east. The pipes are copper.
I guess one of the biggest questions is how much skill is needed to sweat copper pipes? Best left to a professional?
The pipes run parallel to the floor joists and T off to provide water to a stationary tub.
Hopefully, this little diagram will come through:
Water Heater
|
| | |
___________|____|______________________|
The question is, how difficult would it be to remove the T's and cap the pipes, then tap back into the pipes after the tub has been moved to the east. The pipes are copper.
I guess one of the biggest questions is how much skill is needed to sweat copper pipes? Best left to a professional?
#5
02-05-00, 10:10 PM
can you leave the tees where they are and just cut them off short enough too sweat a couple of gate valves on so you can turn the
rest of the house back on while you relocate.
then you can run your lines where you want too. sweating copper does require some practice.if you want you can sweat a 1/2 inch
copper male adapter on the end of the pipe that you cut off then use a threaded gate valve ,just screw it on after you apply pipe dope and turn them off,now you can use cpvc
by threading a 1/2 cpvc male adapter into
the other end of the threaded gate valve,now you just have too glue the fittings,although
you may also have to sweat a male or female adapter to the copper at the tub to make your final tie inn.
rest of the house back on while you relocate.
then you can run your lines where you want too. sweating copper does require some practice.if you want you can sweat a 1/2 inch
copper male adapter on the end of the pipe that you cut off then use a threaded gate valve ,just screw it on after you apply pipe dope and turn them off,now you can use cpvc
by threading a 1/2 cpvc male adapter into
the other end of the threaded gate valve,now you just have too glue the fittings,although
you may also have to sweat a male or female adapter to the copper at the tub to make your final tie inn.
