Sink drain question

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  #1  
Old 04-17-04, 09:57 PM
bobsmith
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Sink drain question

I'm sure this is a rookie question, but can anyone point me to a site that has step by step instructions about installing a drain in a bathroom sink? I just installed a new Moen faucet with a pop-up drain. I understand how to install the drain except for this: the instructions don't tell me how to connect the drain to the chrome trap. They tell me how to connect it to the sink, and how to install the pop-up assembly, but they stop there. It's as if they think I'll just stick a bucket under the sink to catch the water. I need to know how to connect the plastic drain pipe to the chrome trap, and how to make sure that connection is sealed. There are no threads on the bottom of the plastic drain pipe that comes with the faucet, so I do not know how to make that connection to the chrome trap assembly. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 04-17-04, 10:06 PM
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bobsmith,

First, welcome to DoItYourself.com.

The conncetion between the bottom of the pop-up valve and the trap (or extension tube above the trap) is simply a slip joint connection. If you want to use a brass (chrome) drain, that's up to you. Personally, I would use plastic -- ABS or PVC. It's easier to work with, and it cost about 1/10th of what the brass will, and it'll last longer.

You'll have to buy one extra nut and slip joint washer when you get the trap and extention tube.
 
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Old 04-18-04, 12:32 AM
bobsmith
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Thanks lefty! I'll probably use the chrome trap and extension tube, simply because it's there and it seems to be in good shape - and also because I don't know how to replace it with PVC, so I'm afraid I'll mess it up. I have a few follow-up questions:

1. Can I reuse the chrome extension tube that is there now?

2. How about the slip joint washer? Is it best to replace those after they've been in use? And are they standard size?

3. Is a slip joint just a deal where a rubber washer is squeezed against the drain pipe to form a seal?

4. Also, how do I get the old plastic drain out of the chrome extension tube, and the new one in again? There's is no room. Do I need to loosen the other joints on the trap so it can be moved? If so, which joints?

As you can tell, I don't know what I'm doing. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
 
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Old 04-18-04, 01:13 AM
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Cool

1. Yes.
2. You may or may not need to replace the washers if you ever take it apart after it has been in place a long time. They're readily available everywhere that plumbing supplies are sold.
3. Plastic slip nuts have plastic washers. Put the flat side of the washer toward the nut and the beveled side toward the threaded pipe. Metal slip nuts have rubber washers, and it doesn't matter which way you install the rubber washers. They're flat on both sides. Lav drains should be a standard 1-1/4".
4. Loosen all of the connecting slip nuts so that you easily can move and adjust the assembly. Just slide the trap up the chrome tailpiece. Plastic slip nuts are made to seal by hand-tightening, but you can snug them a bit more a quarter-turn with a pair of channel-locks. Don't over-tighten them, or they'll crack. You need channel-locks or a pipe wrench to tighten metal slip nuts.
The pro plumber's here (I'm not one) cringe at this one, but if you're having trouble with a slip nut and washer leaking, just take it apart and smear on a little silicone caulk. Works for me. No problem. LOL
Good Luck!
Mike
 
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Old 04-18-04, 12:11 PM
bobsmith
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Thanks Mike! That's what I needed to know.
 
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Old 04-18-04, 04:12 PM
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Bobsmith,

The threads will be on the top of the extension tube -- the bottom of the pop-up valve will be smooth, as you can see. The same thing when you get to the trap -- the bottom of the extension tube will be smooth, the top of the trap will be threaded.

Yes, we give Mike a bad time about his use of silicon. (I think he has told us in no uncertain terms that we aren't going to get it out of his hands until we pry it out!! LOL!!) The washers should seal just fine without out, but if that's what it takes, then that's what it takes.
 
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Old 04-19-04, 11:39 AM
bobsmith
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Thanks Lefty! I think I get it now.
 
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Old 04-27-04, 02:47 PM
bobsmith
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Mike & Lefty,

I bought the stuff I need (I think). It sure didn't cost much! I have one last question. I think I understand how to replace a basin drain except for one thing. Could you take a look at this link? It is the actual drain I will be replacing with plastic.

http://www.indytel.com/~btoohey/drain.jpg

I plan to replace everything up to the joint where the arrow is pointing. Problem is, I don't know how to connect a plastic wall bend tube to the brass fitting that's in that photo. Is that a slip joint too? Can I use a plastic nut and washer at that joint, or do I need some kind of special connector? The directions reference a "marvel connector" at that joint. Do I need to buy that, or can I just connect my plastic wall bend tube directly to the joint that's there? Any advice appreciated.
 
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Old 04-27-04, 04:22 PM
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bobsmith,

Plastic IS a whole lot cheaper than brass, pluss it will last a lot longer, and it's easier to work with.

The connection in question in your picture is just a slip joint. Extend the waste arm of the trap into that tube coming out of the wall as far as you can, and use a beveled washer and a nut. That should do it. It might require some silicon to get it to seal, but probably not.
 
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