Running waterlines, drain and vents new bathroom
#1

I have my first home being built. In order to save money I am finishing the basement on my own. That includes a third bathroom. The toilet and drains have been roughed in and stubbed out the concrete floor. I have already run electric, phone and t.v lines all throughout the basement and I am ready to start drywalling. First, I have to get my waterlines where I want them. I need to run a hot and cold waterline to my sink with a drain, a hot and cold waterline to my bathtub (with a drain)which is directly across the room from my sink, and a water supply to my toilet which is located to the left of my sink. I have a bathtub positioned directly above the ceiling of this bathroom (upstairs), so I have acess to it's hot and cold waterlines, but I have know idea how to tie into them and then run enough lines to cover the tub, sink, and toilet. Can somebody please walk me through step by step on what I should do? I am pretty handy and have been able to wire, frame and finish everything in my basement thus far. I think I will be able to tackle this project too once someone gives me a blueprint. I really appreciate your help and look forward to your reply. Thanks in advance.
#2

First off make sure you know what codes you go by in your state.
Now you need to take cold water line off of a 3/4" supply somewhere, then after your first fixture stub out, reducing to 1/2" from there will do fine, on the hot supply you will still need to tie into a 3/4" hot supply, only this time reduce at the tie-in and run to the two fixtures.
How much pipe is needed? Just buy what you think it will take and if you run out buy more.
You did not say what type of pipe you have there now.
Best Regards Plumber2000
www.atozplumbing.com
Now you need to take cold water line off of a 3/4" supply somewhere, then after your first fixture stub out, reducing to 1/2" from there will do fine, on the hot supply you will still need to tie into a 3/4" hot supply, only this time reduce at the tie-in and run to the two fixtures.
How much pipe is needed? Just buy what you think it will take and if you run out buy more.
You did not say what type of pipe you have there now.
Best Regards Plumber2000
www.atozplumbing.com
#3

The best advice I can give is to go find a house under construction just before they put up the drywall. This will give you something to copy. You can also measure how far everything is off the floor in any finished bathroom. Measure how far off the floor, and how far apart, and how far off drain lines, all the plumbing emerges from the wall.
Go learn how to solder copper pipe. It's pretty easy if you follow all the instructions exactly. Buy a tubing cutter.
Measure how far above the floor all the stub outs are and duplicate it. You'll see how a drop-eared ell is used for the shower head, and how it is secured to the framing -- screw a scrap piece of pipe into the ell so you'll leave the right opening in the wall (preferably cement board). You'll need to buy your shower/tub valve first, since it is hard-connected in. You'll also need to know how you plan to finish the shower wall so you can plan the position of the valve correctly.
Make sure the toilet stub out is cold water! It's normally 6" off the floor and several inches to the left of the center line of the toilet (as you look at the wall).
The hot and cold stubs for the sink are normally about 17" off the floor and about 8" apart with the hot on the left. Make all stubs from 1/2" pipe, but you can use 3/4" everywhere inside the wall (except for 1/2" after the tub/shower valve). Stub out the sink drain with 1-1/2" ABS between the hot and cold lines. You might want to buy your vanity first to make sure your stub outs don't conflict with any of the parts of your vanity.
Cap all your stub-outs until you finish drywalling. I'd leave about 8" so you'll have plenty to work with later.
If you can find a place with access, you might consider adding ball shut-off valves on the hot and cold lines coming to the bathroom. That way you can later shut off water to the bath without shutting it off to the whole house.
Don't just make things up. You'll regret it later.
Go learn how to solder copper pipe. It's pretty easy if you follow all the instructions exactly. Buy a tubing cutter.
Measure how far above the floor all the stub outs are and duplicate it. You'll see how a drop-eared ell is used for the shower head, and how it is secured to the framing -- screw a scrap piece of pipe into the ell so you'll leave the right opening in the wall (preferably cement board). You'll need to buy your shower/tub valve first, since it is hard-connected in. You'll also need to know how you plan to finish the shower wall so you can plan the position of the valve correctly.
Make sure the toilet stub out is cold water! It's normally 6" off the floor and several inches to the left of the center line of the toilet (as you look at the wall).
The hot and cold stubs for the sink are normally about 17" off the floor and about 8" apart with the hot on the left. Make all stubs from 1/2" pipe, but you can use 3/4" everywhere inside the wall (except for 1/2" after the tub/shower valve). Stub out the sink drain with 1-1/2" ABS between the hot and cold lines. You might want to buy your vanity first to make sure your stub outs don't conflict with any of the parts of your vanity.
Cap all your stub-outs until you finish drywalling. I'd leave about 8" so you'll have plenty to work with later.
If you can find a place with access, you might consider adding ball shut-off valves on the hot and cold lines coming to the bathroom. That way you can later shut off water to the bath without shutting it off to the whole house.
Don't just make things up. You'll regret it later.