Replacing Delta single lever kitchen faucet


  #1  
Old 09-27-00, 08:43 PM
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Plumber 2000 or anyone:

My sister wants me to replace the 25 year old Delta single lever faucet on her kitchen sink, and I haven't done this before. I looked under the sink, and noted that the steel bolt, horseshoe shaped flange and nut holding it on are all rusty. It's close to the sink, so there's not a lot of working space to use a wrench, and I'm inclined to try a deep 1/2 inch socket to take that nut off. The rust all over everthing is a bad omen, and I'm wondering what kind of a fight I'm in for.

If that nut seizes up and I can't get it off, what else can I do other than cut through the faucet body above the counter top?

Also, I'm planning to install a Moen simply because it's easier to replace the cartridge on a Moen than it is to replace the rubbers on a Delta. What are your thoughts on that?
 
  #2  
Old 09-27-00, 09:16 PM
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Try the deep socket see if that will work. I have in the past if there frozen is put on some safety glasses and drilled the nuts off, its fast and effective.

If all else fails tackle it from up top, only bad thing about doing it this way, is there is the chance you could scratch the sink surface

Moen is the faucet I install all the time.

Best Regards Plumber2000
www.atozplumbing.com
 
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Old 09-28-00, 08:03 AM
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Hey Nestor, the people back at todays homeowner are missing you. But don't go back -- they don't deserve you over there. We appreciate you here, and treat you nice too.
 
  #4  
Old 09-28-00, 11:09 AM
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Plumber2000:
Actually, the more I think about it, the more I think the reason why I don't want to put in another Delta is because it just doesn't seem reasonable to me that a company that makes plumbing fixtures wouldn't see anything wrong with providing ordinary steel mounting hardware. I believe I could convince my sister there isn't anything wrong with that if I wanted to, but I've seen enough condensation on cold water pipes in presumably dry locations that I wouldn't expect that kind of naive decision from a company that makes plumbing fixtures.
If there's room, what about using the flush cutting accessory with a short metal cutting blade on the Sawzall and cutting through the stud between the nut and the mounting plate on the underside of the counter? I'm going to try that if the nut won't budge. If that doesn't work, then I'm going to notch a piece of sheet metal to protect the sink and cut it off from above.
Somebody saving 50 cents by using steel hardware instead of brass is providing free $100 headaches to their customers. Think about people that don't have a sawzall to get them out of this kind of problem.

John Nelson:
Who knows if I'll stick around here either? You seem to have a larger number of more knowledgeable forum moderators here. What bugged me the most over there was people that didn't really take the time to learn about their own problems, what caused them and what needs to be done to correct them.
So, instead of asking specific questions about their proposed gameplan to solve the problem, they post a detailed description of the problem and follow it up with HEEEELLLPPP PLEEEEEESE!!!!! That might fly for someone that doesn't know any more about it than they do, but for someone that does, it's kinda obvious that there're really not making much of an effort to help themselves (if you don't count the time and energy spent pleading for help from others). Besides, I was on there for long enough to explain a lot of tricks pros use to get good results, especially in plastering, and hopefully the people there will remember and exchange that info with those that need it. I'd encourage them to do that. I don't think it would be fair to the new people joining not to give them the advice they need because someone thinks Nestor is going to get his feathers ruffled for using his ideas. They're not my ideas. Someone taught me, too. Thanks for the vote of confidence, though.

 
  #5  
Old 09-28-00, 11:51 AM
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Nestor,

If I was to do this from up top, first I would cut off and strip the finish parts of the faucet all the way down to body only, then you will see the bolt's that are holding it in place, at this point if there was no room to cut the bolts off, I would then start drilling the bolts out from up top until the bolts drop off. If you feel you got the room the cut them off with a sawsall then try it, I have only done this once with a sawsall and it was not fun, I just knew if I screwed up I'd be buying a new sink.

The only time I use a delta kitchen faucet is if I come across and old kitchen sink that is a 6" center and not an 8" center, With a delta faucet you can move the bolts in to use on a 6" center, this is the only time I use it.

Best Regards Plumber2000
www.atozplumbing.com
 
  #6  
Old 09-28-00, 06:06 PM
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Hi Nestor, Nice to be able to help you out for a change. Delta Faucets are held on with carriage bolts and if rusted they will spin on the top. Don't waste your time trying to turn them off, clamp on vice grips on the bolt under the sink Strip the top down as plumber 2000 suggest and drill the heads off start with a 1/8 inch and work up to about 5/16 and the bolt will fall off. drill as close to the center of the bolt as you can get. This takes me less tan a 1/2 hour to do.
Good Luck Woodbutcher
 
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Old 09-28-00, 10:17 PM
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Plumber2000 and Woodbutcher:
Nice to see you again Woodbutcher.

I didn't know about the bolts being accessible from above. I'll take along a center punch and a few cobalt drill bits just in case. Electric drill might help too.
 
  #8  
Old 10-05-13, 10:50 AM
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I didn't have a drill so I used a dremel cutting wheel. Delta should have done a better design with that. I'm replacing with a Moen and it looks to be an ease install.
 
 

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