control valve on bathtub faucet

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  #1  
Old 12-30-04, 12:07 PM
Randa
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Question control valve on bathtub faucet

Help someone PLEASE! The control on my faucet broke off and when I tried to replace the valve that holds the screw broke. It didn't break completely off just half of the part where the screw goes in. Can I replace this myself or am I better off having a plumber do it? I may be a woman but I am pretty handy with tools(thanks to my dear old dad) Does anyone have any good news for me?

Thanks
Randa
 
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Old 12-30-04, 12:32 PM
majakdragon's Avatar
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Location: N.E. Arkansas
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Randa, Welcome to the DIY Forums.
Need a little more info on your faucet.
Is it a single handle tub/shower set-up?
EXACTLY what broke?
Do you know the brand and possibly the model number of the faucet.
These answers would help greatly. Good luck.
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-04, 01:20 PM
Randa
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Unhappy control valve

Thank you for responding Majakdragon! The only ID I am able to see is a small hs on the maiin plate. There is a control to turn to the Hot or COld but the problem is with the control that turns the water on. the valve that the control screw screws into chipped in half. It works but the screw keeps backing out because that valve is not intact.
 
  #4  
Old 12-30-04, 02:00 PM
majakdragon's Avatar
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I think I understand what you have however I am not sure. Please reply back with answers to the following questions.

1) Single handle control that controls both hot and cold? Does this turn or push in and pull out for the water control?OR 2 handle control with one for hot and one for cold.
2) The part that broke, is this where the handle screws onto the cartridge?
3) Is this controling a diverter for a shower?

If I am correct in my thinking, you have a single handle faucet that turns left and right for hot or cold. Then you pull the handle out to turn on the water. IF this is correct , there is a screw in the center of the handle that holds it to the cartridge. The top of this cartridge is what broke in half. This faucet could also have a lever that is pulled left or right for the water temp and the handle to pull the water on.

If this is the case then you will have to shut off the main water supply and change the cartridge out. I can not give you specific directions to remove he cartridge without knowing what kind it is. I can however give you a general idea of how they come out.

Turn off the main water supply
remove the handle
remove the cartridge( some screw in, some have an set screw holding them, some need a special tool that comes with the new faucet or repair part)
Take the cartridge to a home center or plumbing supply center and see if they can match it up with a replacement. If no replacement can be found your only choice maybe to replace the faucet.

If you can give us a close up picture of the faucet we may be able to give you more specific instructions to remove the cartridge and where you might find one.

Good Luck and please reply back
 

Last edited by majakdragon; 12-30-04 at 02:21 PM.
  #5  
Old 12-30-04, 02:37 PM
Randa
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Smile

Thank you Majakdragon...You got the description just right. I will do as you suggest and turn the water off first and then remove the piece and take it to my nearest home improvement store. One is just up the street. I will contact you later and let you know how it goes. Thanks again.
 
  #6  
Old 12-30-04, 08:07 PM
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I thought I understood her post to say 1 handle to turn the water on/off; another handle to adjust hot./cold. In which case.........?Mixet?
 
  #7  
Old 12-31-04, 08:48 AM
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Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,585
One thing I think worth mentioning here....If you close your main water valve you create a 'closed system'. Now, IF the hot water heater comes on the pressure will rise from 50# pressure to 250# pressure. As Martha would say, "not a good thing".

Copied from the A. O. Smith web site:

When heat is applied, the nature and
behavior of water tends to change. As
water is heated it immediately starts
to expand.
As long as the service pipe between
street main and water heater remains
unobstructed to reverse flow, the water
will move, as it expands, back
towards the street main with no measurable
increase in pressure.
However, should the flow in the
service line be limited to flow only
towards the service outlets, by the
use of a check valve or reducing valve,
Fig. 1, or should a manually operated
valve be closed, water, as it expands
while heating, cannot escape from
the system and a damaging pressure
could quickly follow.
Water (unlike air) cannot be compressed
appreciably. The confinement
of water results in what is called a
"closed system."
Water expands at the rate of approximately
0.00023 pct. for each
degree of temperature rise. If all of the
water in a 30 gal. heater were raised
from 60 to 140F, a temperature rise
of 80, it would increase the original
volume to 30.55 gal., an increase of
.55 gal.
Water confined in a storage tank or
piping system will, when subjected to
a temperature rise of 10 (increasing
from 75 to 85), increases pressure
from 50 lbs. up to 250 lbs.

So, be sure to turn off your breaker or turn to pilot before closing main water valve.

Baldwin
 
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