New Downstairs Bathroom Install


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Old 01-26-05, 03:32 PM
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New Downstairs Bathroom Install

Hello again and thanks in advance for your help.

I have searched here and on the Internet for these answers but I really need the help of a pro...

I am finishing off my basement and have a full bath that is already roughed in. I had the plumber over today to give me a quote on jackhammering the floor to move the shower drain (It's roughed in for a tub and not a stand-up shower.) and to move the toilet rough-in over about a foot so it's not so close to the shower. I have a few questions though...

1. Should I use 1/2 inch pipe to feed everything? I have easy access to the 3/4 inch pipes that feed everything in the house. (They are right above the bathroom.) What I'd like to do is to take off those right above the bathroom and branch out from there. I assume that I need to downsize the pipe from 3/4 to 1/2 inch. It looks like the've used 1/2 inch pipe for other bathroom applications in the house.

2. I want to put in cutoff valves that feed the bathroom. I can put an access hatch on the other side of the wall so I can reach up there and turn the water off to the bathroom if I need to do any future work. Should I branch off the 3/4" pipe, install the valves and then downsize to 1/2 inch or downsize first and then install the 1/2 inch pipe? Also... My neighbor, who has the same sort of layout, put cutoff vales that feed his sink, toilet and wet-bar (on the other side of the wall of the bathroom) and another set of cutoffs for the shower. Should I install two cutoffs or can one handle the job?

3. The valve for turning off the outside fuacet portrudes down below the ceiling level. What I would like to do is heat that up and rotate it 180 degrees so it is above the ceiling level. Would I need to take it all apart and clean it again or can I just heat it up and re-sweat the joint?

4. I need to run the pipe through 2X4 studs. I had planned on drilling a 3/4 - 7/8 inch hole through them and after centering the pipes, filling them with expandable foam to keep them from moving. Should I do that condiering that the wood may shift as it changes with humidity? Whats the way to handle this?

5. I want to take off from the supply and have everything branch off from that... I will need to feed a sink, toilet, shower and wet-bar on the other side of the wall from the bathroom. I am assuming that I can feed it all from one takeoff and not need to cut in twice. (EX. one takeoff for the sink, toilet and shower and another one for the wet-bar.

I have great water pressure, 50-60 lbs I think. (My buddy tested it and I don't remember the exact number.) The takeoffs will be only 10 feet or so from where they come out of the water heater.

I feel very confident that I can do the copper plumbing... (Especially with everyone's help here!) Clean it, flux it, heat it up, solder it and wipe it clean. I've done a lot of DIY plumbing jobs and they've always worked without leaks. I'm glad I found a plumber that will allow me to do part of the work to keep costs down... and to have fun and pride of doing it myself. However, I want to make sure that I am doing it by the book and by the codes.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old 02-01-05, 07:34 AM
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Everything sounds fine about what you are doing, but it is unnecessary to install so many cutoff valves in a system.


They are required as isolation valves for the sink and toilet, but doubling up valves leads to restricted pressure and valves that will not open or may leak when the time comes.




Anytime I see homes with additional shutoffs, I always go to the valve that shuts all of them down, the main. That valve serves the purpose of everything in the home, and that keeps the old valves from leaking when disturbing them from their long period of no use.


I'm from the old school that the more you add to a system that is unneccessary........the more problems you create downstream, like restricted pressure, leaks, someone accidently shutting off the wrong valve.



 
 

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