wast line drips where ABS connects with Cast.

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-22-05, 06:28 PM
downtownjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
waste line drips where ABS connects with Cast.

I need some help, I had a guy replace my waste lines which were glavanized and needing replacement, anyways, went to ABS, and all is fin accept where the ABS connect to the toilet drain (is it called a soil pipe?) It is Cast and the pipe branches off in a Tee and the original piece was in there with pressure and most likely lead? Cause I saw some silver in the opening and at first thought was that the guy sawzalled the galvanized and it was rememenants, but I talked to him later and he told me after battle with the pipe that it just slid out. Now the problem is, that after he just slipped in the ABS, it drips, he tried to repair this with silicone ( i knew it wasnt gonna work, but I was up for anything) I checked out a Fernco part (#1056-32) but the opening to go over the mouth of the Tee isnt big enough. The OD on the Tee is 3.75, and the Fernco is 3.8. What other solutions is there to fix this. I am new to the whole world of plumbing tricks. Not even sure how lead would work or what the hell is Oakum? Any solutions would be awesome. Thanks in advance, Joe

ABS is 2.38 OD
Cast is from 1961 when house was built Main is something like 4+ OD
Tee is atleast 3.75, hard to get calipers in there.

Link to Fernco Part
http://www.citysupplyhouston.com/product.php?id=451
 

Last edited by downtownjoe; 03-23-05 at 05:58 PM. Reason: add info
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-22-05, 07:50 PM
wrmiii's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: West Texas
Posts: 256
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hub or No-Hub?

Joe, from what I get from your description it sounds like your plumber removed a three inch closet bend (a 90 deg. Fitting from a sanitary tee) and inserted the new ABS into the hub of the tee. If this was the case he should have installed a tye-seal gasket into the hub and placed the new pipe into this. Without a picture of this its hard to tell what your dealing with. If you can not get him to repair this then try and post a picture and I assure you that you will get an answer to your problem very promptly. Good luck and post back.
 
  #3  
Old 03-22-05, 08:16 PM
majakdragon's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: N.E. Arkansas
Posts: 7,827
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Oakum is a loose hemp fiber that was treated with a grease type sticky substance used to fill the joints between the cast pipes. Lead is then poured over the Oakum to seal the joint itself. This is then packed with a chisel like tool to expand the lead which seals the joint against leakage. This was the standard way of connecting cast iron pipes before No-Hub cast iron pipes and fittings beacme available.

The silver stuff you saw was probably lead shavings.

Hope this answers your question.
 
  #4  
Old 03-22-05, 09:14 PM
downtownjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Here is the picture

Here is the picture, there are two views on one picture, its hard to see it entirely since it's behind wood. You can see the goop of silicone and twisted ruber I put in place until I find the parts. I tried finding a tyseal, but I only found one website that doesnt picture them. Here is the website
http://www.citysupplyhouston.com/search.php
then type in tyseal
and here is the picture
 

Last edited by downtownjoe; 03-22-05 at 09:18 PM. Reason: more info
  #5  
Old 03-23-05, 07:05 PM
wrmiii's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: West Texas
Posts: 256
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
We should all own digital cameras

Joe, the picture tells it all. You will need a 3" tyseal gasket. Most plumbing supply shops will have them in stock. Caution! They are a buger to get in sometimes. They look like the inside of the hub that you will be putting it in. Most plumbers fold them in half, insert them into the hub and let them open up inside the hub. You will need to make certain the inside of the hub is cleaned out very well so the gasket will seat itself. Next you will need to camphor (round off) the end of the pipe you are going to insert into the gasket. They make a lubricant to help ease the insertion of the pipe but for just one joint you could use a dish soap, vaseline or any type of lubricant to make it slide in easier. Now the challenge, ABS pipe is a bit larger then your standard weight cast iron and it is a chore to just shove it into this gasket. If you look inside the gasket after it has been installed into the hub you will notice several ridges the pipe will need to pass in order to seat. Most plumbers I know will use a utility knife to trim these ridges down just a bit prior to inserting the gasket into the hub. Since the ABS is larger then the cast iron you will still get a very tight seal and will not leak water or gas. Good luck and I hope this was helpful. As always, please post back and let us know how things work out.
 
  #6  
Old 03-23-05, 08:01 PM
downtownjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Sweet!

Thanks a million, my girlfriend and I are in amazaement that we just got such good advice for free, you rock! Thanks to the both of you, and I will get the part and give it a shot this weekend. Will post back with results or other tips for other people doing the same job. Thanks again, joe
 
  #7  
Old 04-24-05, 04:13 PM
downtownjoe
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Wow! That was a pain!

I didnt get any other pictures, but if you are going through this there is a couple things to think of when you remove your galvanized pipe to insert the ABS pip.

1. I had to removed the lead that was heated and poured in place (not sure what its called again), but I used a sawzall blade and squeezed in there by hand and made about four cuts in channels from front to back then I used a chisel and hammered at the lead until it finally came out of the flange.

2. If in a tight place like I was, think of a way to force that pipe into the Tyseal. I'm a big guy, pretty strong, and I could not get it in without the use of a pry bar, a metal plate over the pipe so not to damage the pipe and a car jack. Seriously! I trimmed the pipe, the tyseal, and used lube and it wouldnt go. Finally the car jack worked to get me to a point where I could get a grip with a prybar.

3. When sectioning like I had to do I had a gap and didnt want to use the rubber screw on couplers so i bought a plastic coupler and routed out the inside ridge so that I could sleeve the coupler over the pipe to make the space between the two pipes less than an 1/8th of an inch.

Good luck, and thanks too all that helped,that was awesome!
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: