Copper pipe repair


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Old 06-29-05, 10:04 PM
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Copper pipe repair

For some reason, i can't seem to find the search button to look through the forums for this.

My copper water line that runs outside to an exterior spigot has sprung a pinhole leak indoors. It took me a while to chase down the source of the leak, but i found it. It seems as though there is some corrosion and/or buildup of some sort where it popped through.

I've never really done any copper tubing work, but i have a tubing cutter and a Bernzomatic torch. Is there some sort of patch that i can put on this, or do i need to cut the pipe and "sweat" in a coupling of some sort? I didn't think copper would corrode like that, especially considering the house is only 11 years old.

Thanks,
Steve
 
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Old 06-29-05, 10:11 PM
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Although seldom, it does happen with some chemicals in the water supply. I would cut the pipe at the leaking spot and then sweat a coupling there. This is the simplest way to fix the leak. Good luck.
 
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Old 06-30-05, 12:48 AM
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Be sure that you can shut off the water supply to the area you need to solder, and make sure that you completely drain it of water. Otherwise you will spend hours warming your pipes and creating steam, but never getting the fittings hot enough to take a solder joint.
 
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Old 06-30-05, 07:40 PM
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Thanks guys. Is there any trick to installing the coupling? Specific solder? Flux? Scotchbrite?

Thanks,
Steve
 
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Old 06-30-05, 08:03 PM
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Sand and clean both the coupling and pipe, apply flux and use lead-free solder.

Go to any big box store and buy the kit that has everything you need.
 
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Old 07-03-05, 04:10 PM
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Well my first go around netted two more leaks than i had before. I don't believe i got it hot enough, and trying to solder a joint that's upside down isn't helping. Attempt number two has netted a better looking application of product, thanks to more heat. How long should i let it cool down for before opening the valve?
 
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Old 07-03-05, 04:20 PM
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I should have sent this link to you right off the bat. Click on it and you can see what you need to do from start to finish. You should be able to turn the water on immediately.
The animations are cute too.

http://www.doityourself.com/baths/h2handlecopper.htm
 
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Old 07-03-05, 07:03 PM
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Thanks. In the video, it mentioned heating up the pipe and letting the solder melt on it. That's the part i messed up on the first time. I just tried to melt the solder onto the pipe. I kind of got the hang of it on the second go around and so far so good. It's holding steady.

Thanks again,
Steve
 
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Old 07-04-05, 06:13 AM
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Nifty link, Mr Magic Dragon... I Like it.

As usual, I am too late and the problem has been solved before I got here, but here is my two cents anyway!

Clean and sand the joint thouroughly. Whether you use mesh abrasive tape or a brush to polish the copper to a shine, wipe it with rubbing alcohol prior to fluxing and assembly of fittings...

Use a flux that has solder in it already, such as Oatey 95 tinning flux. As you heat the joint it "pre-solders" it before your solid solder begins to flow.

Use higher heat. Propane just doesn't cut it unless you are working with brand new copper that has never seen water. If you've drained a line to make a repair, the residual water in the line tends to steam up and keep the connection too cool to allow a good solder flow. MAPP gas outperforms propane many times over.

Don't use TOO much heat! You may have and Oxy-Atcetylene torch and may be tempted to use it. Sometimes it works but sometimes you can burn a hole and actually melt the copper pipe and fitting you are trying to repair in the first place.....
 
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Old 07-06-05, 09:43 PM
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Well i re-soldered the joint tonight. Heated the pipe up and just let the solder melt onto it. Worked much easier with less mess. About this MAPP gas. Is it available at home centers and such? It seems as though the Propane got the pipe hot enough, but i could always use more heat in the garage, especially here in the North with all of the rusty bolts that we have to put up with.
 
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Old 07-06-05, 10:35 PM
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I have seen the small MAPP gas cylinders in stores. I believe they are painted yellow to keep from confusing them with the propane cylinders. Good luck.
 
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Old 07-08-05, 05:10 AM
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Mister Dragon is right. The MAPP cylinders are yellow and the propane ones are blue. MAPP gas is hotter, therefore it makes a better solder joint if water is present in the line. MAPP gas cylinders are about twice as expensive as propane. Guess you are paying for the heat.

MAPP is a cousin to acetyline, but does not come even close to the heat generated by the mixture of acetyline and oxygen. It depends on the type of bolt or nut you want to remove. But if it is rusted solid, heat can do the trick, just as long as you heat it enough. The offending bolt should be heated to a nice cherry red, thus expanding it enough to loosen the rust. In my experience, this goes for Iron, stainless steel and Aluminum.

Nothing beats a mixture of Oxygen and Acetyline for heat, though.
 
 

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