Pressure Testing Propane Lines


Old 12-17-05, 03:04 PM
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Pressure Testing Propane Lines

I've made some changes to my propane lines (moved the oven about ten feet) and now I need to pressure test my lines. My initial attempt was a failure because the pressure was leaking straight out the pressure regulator that is outside on the main line coming into the house (there's also another regulator on the tank). The line will hold about 1 PSI indefinitely, but the inspection calls for 10 PSI for 10 minutes. Obviously I need to eliminate the regulator from the equation, but my question is do I need to remove it and cap the line, or can it be closed in some way. There's a knob on it that has "TIGHTEN" with an arrow on it, but I'm concerned if I tighten it all the way I wouldn't know how to readjust it to the correct pressure setting. Any help appreciated
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Old 12-17-05, 04:03 PM
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Disconnect the line from the regulator. Regulators are not made to be tested against. Good luck.
Old 12-17-05, 04:05 PM
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If you are going to test the lines at that pressure you need to remove the regulator at the tank and shut off all the shut off valves at the appliances. Hitting your stove with 10 PSI can ruin it. You will need to isolate the regulator, tank and all appliances to do this. The test is done with a pressure gauge.

This type of pressure test is usually required by the AHJ on new gas lines. Another way to test for leaks of the whole system (regulator, lines, appliances) is with a "leak test". A leak test tests the system at working pressure (9" WC) for ten minutes. This test is done with a manometer.
Old 12-17-05, 04:10 PM
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Thanks for the help, dragon and Hank! I'll remove the regulator tomorrow (to dark and cold to deal with now).
Old 12-18-05, 12:04 PM
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If you are pressure testing with a pressure gauge at 10 lbs you will need to leave the gauge on a lot longer than 10 min to see if you have a leak. I had this problem with new construction. You can use that method to satisfy the initial requirement, but the best way to be sure before calling for final inspection is to have everything hooked up and test at manifold pressure (12 inches water for nat gas and 14 inches for propane). Using a manometer is by far the easiest method, it will tell you right away if you have a leak.
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