Leak under plastic top on weatherproof faucet


  #1  
Old 01-02-06, 10:12 AM
BSparks294
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Leak under plastic top on weatherproof faucet

I have a weatherproof faucet on the west side of my house. I disconnected the hose from the faucet this winter-so no water was trapped in the hose.

The problem is that when I turn the faucet on, water comes out the normal place but it also comes out from underneath the plastic cap that is on top of the faucet. It does not leak when the faucet is turned off, just when it is turned on.

What would be the fix for this type of problem? I have replaced the packing inside of faucets of this variety before (not his specific faucet) for leaking around the knob, but never had this problem before.

Thanks, Brad
 
  #2  
Old 01-02-06, 10:23 AM
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That is an Anti-Siphon type faucet that has a diaphragm that has either a broken O-ring or the plastic is broke.

It broke from freezing most likely and will have to be replaced in order to function properly. Get the brand name off of the faucet and go to a local plumbing supply house to get the right parts; use plumber's grease on the fine threads so that it comes out easily down the road.
 
  #3  
Old 01-07-06, 07:18 AM
BSparks294
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Examined things today and determined that the joint where the existing faucet attaches to the plumbing is soldered in, not screwed. No problem except for the fact that it is between two joists that extend beyond the foundation of the house. No way to get any tools in that little space.

I have determined that I will need to take apart the joint that I can reach and resolder it when I get the new faucet installed. A bigger job than I imagined. That does explain why the faucet froze, there is absolutely no heat reaching that area.

Had a question about the type of faucet to install. I saw some at Home Depot, that are full open or closed with just a half a turn---are they designed okay? I do not want to do this job again. Plastic parts that can be replaced from outside the house. I am going to install a shutoff inside the house so I can drain the water out of the faucet in the winter time to avoid this problem.

Thanks, Brad
 
  #4  
Old 01-08-06, 05:55 PM
BSparks294
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Got the repair done today, a little harder than expected. I replaced the entire faucet assembly and put in a shut-off valve. Nice results. I did not solder the faucet in, but rather went with the screw in assembly. Thank you for the help.
 
  #5  
Old 01-08-06, 10:19 PM
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Just out of curiousity, why did the entire faucet have to be replaced when only the Anti-Siphon device was faulty?

And did you install a 1/4 turn faucet? Those actually do not need an inside valve if they are frostproof. Let us know.
 
  #6  
Old 01-10-06, 07:13 PM
BSparks294
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Cool

I guess I could have just replaced the anti-siphon parts, but I did want to convert to the 1/4 turn faucet anyway.

As for the shut-off inside the wall--the faucet and my anti-pressue vacuum breaker valve are connected to the same pipe. Every year even when I blow out the system, water remains in the line because there was no drain installed in the pipe inside the house. So I installed a shut-off with drain plug so I will not have to replace my sprinkler valve parts each year. When we moved in, last year the outside pipe was wrapped in insulation and duct-tape. When I removed it for the spring, the pipe was cracked.

The inside space where the pipe is, does not get nearly enough heat, so I just finished installing a furnace vent in the basement area where these pipes are located.

Thanks for your help.
 
  #7  
Old 01-10-06, 08:21 PM
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Thanks for the follow-up. You'll like the 1/4 turn valve. I buy the B&K Mueller type from HD in all different sizes, I've only had one callback on them and it was dirt in the ceramic valve at the end of it.

Took it apart, blew it out, works fine with no problems. I expect to see them all eventually head this direction in replacing the older styles.
 
 

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