How to adjust PRV


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Old 02-15-06, 07:17 AM
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How to adjust PRV

I'm trying to set the house water pressure on my pressure reducing valve and am not sure exactly how to do this properly - other than just turning the adjuster. The question is, do I set it with a faucet open so I can see the "demand pressure", or with no demand on the system. When I do the latter, the guage drifts up to line pressure (95psi). If I do the former, I cen set it at 40, 50 or 60 as I choose and one or two facuets open does not seem to matter much, but the guage goes to 95 pretty fast when I close the faucets.

Thanks
 
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Old 02-15-06, 12:03 PM
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You set it with the faucet wide open. The problem is that the PRV is leaking. So you need to correct that first (there was another thread on this recently). Otherwise, .
 
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Old 02-15-06, 07:57 PM
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Thanks. I found the earlier post and it answered my questions. I'll replace the valve this weekend.
 
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Old 02-15-06, 08:42 PM
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If the apparatus is not deteriorated, a cleaning or rebuild might solve the problem.
 
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Old 02-15-06, 10:12 PM
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Well, it's probably too late. Sitting in front of the TV tonight I realized I could hear water running somewhere. No fixtures are open and I can stop it by turning off the water to the water heater or the whole house, but not the line to the irrigation system. Crap, I think a line under my slab blew. I can hear it near the wall with the plumbing to my two middle baths. I know it's not a wall problem because I demoed one of the baths last week and exposed all the plumbing. I think fiddling with the PRV cracked open the pressure valve and made it leak to 95 psi.

I turned off the water heater (and its gas supply) and closed the feed line to it.

It looks like cold showers tomorrow and $12,000 down the toilet.
 
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Old 02-15-06, 11:58 PM
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I am surprised that any pipe would blow at 95 psi. I am more inclined to blame collateral damage from the recent demolition.
As you may have noticed in the other thread, the water heater T&P limits the maximum pressure. The peak pressure might have been 150psi or something like that.

Installation under a concrete slab definitely warrants using copper and/or conduit just under the surface that is accessible at both ends and from one end of which you can remove the old lines and insert new lines.
Conduit also keeps the weight of the slab off your waterline.

Good luck.
 
 

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