cast Iron soil pipe leak


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Old 02-21-06, 08:33 AM
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cast Iron soil pipe leak

Just discovered a leak in our Black 4" cast iron soil pipe in the basement (it runs along the basement wall exposed except for a small 4' section that runs behind a closet and looks to have been patched once already w/ rubber and stainless clamps) By the way the rest of the pipe is in great shape except for that one spot. Should this section should be removed and replaced w/ PVC? Or can I use the same method to patch the new hole? And do I need some sort of cement or adhesive on the rubber patch before cinching it down with the clamps?
 
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Old 02-21-06, 09:24 AM
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The ideal way would be to replace a section of the pipe with PVC. This can be done by cutting the pipe with a rented cast iron pipe snapper. You would then use two No-hub or Fernco fittings made for the transition from cast to PVC. You can probably get these at Home Centers. If you go with the rubber patch method, use silicone around the hole to make sure you have no sewer gas coming into the house. Good luck.
 
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Old 02-21-06, 09:29 AM
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great thanks so much... I think I'll leave the replacement up to a pro (hard to reach back in there). So I'm off to buy the rubber patch... thanks also for the silicone tip... exactly the info I was looking for
 
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Old 02-21-06, 01:52 PM
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Actually now thinking about replacing the bad section... I know on one end I would use the soil pipe cutter... but on the other end I do have a joint that I could knock apart... I remember seeing on a show once that all that was needed was a couple of swift hits with the hammer to break that connection... is that correct? Also should I be concerned about the weight of the remaining pipe? One end (left side that would be cut w/ the cutter) does have a cement block sticking out of the wall for support but the other end (right side that has the male female connection) makes a 90 degree turn and heads upstairs to the 2nd floor bathroom
 
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Old 02-21-06, 02:25 PM
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If you remove the whole section of pipe to the cast fitting, you will need a different connector for the female fitting. It is like a donut that fits inside the hub on the existing pipe fitting. The PVC will have hardly any weight to affect installing any new hangers.
 
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Old 02-21-06, 02:30 PM
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> but on the other end I do have a joint that I could knock apart...
Or you could quit where it is already cut.


> all that was needed was a couple of swift hits with the hammer to break that connection...
Depends on the strength of the cast iron. Yours sounds thin.
The heavy stuff is "impossible" to break with a regular claw hammer.

> should I be concerned about the weight of the remaining pipe?
Yes, but since another section was cut out, it is apparently already supported.



Do you have a picture?
 
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Old 02-22-06, 08:49 AM
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sorry no pic at the moment...(I'll get one for you) fixed it temp. last night w/ clamps and a rubber sleeve but I know eventually I will have to replace that small 4 foot section... what it basically looks like is... left end would be male (it's where I would make the cut) right end (of section being removed) is female so theoretically I can take a small sledge and knock it apart? Use a small cold chisel? Either way once it's out I'll have a 4 foot section out with male connection to my left and male connection to my right. It's my understanding I can take those two connections and use the Fernco fittings on each end with the PVC in between. My other concern is the weight of that pipe... it runs along the basement wall, exposed, about 4 feet off the floor. There are two cement blocks in the run that stick out from the wall for support which I'm OK with... what worries me is the right side where the pipe turns up and goes up to the kitchen and bathroom upstairs.
 
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Old 02-22-06, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by toddkijanka
left end is male (it's where I would make the cut) right end (of section being removed) is female so theoretically I can take a small sledge and knock it apart?
It's horizontal?
Well, it might be soldered with lead. I hope your torch burns MAPP gas.
Use a screwdriver to probe around the fitting.
You should find packing, oakum gum, cement, or lead (doughnut is unlikely).

> Use a small cold chisel?
Fittings are harder to break than the straight pipe.
If it is soldered, I would seriously consider heat.

Otherwise, break off what pipe you can, then pound off the fitting, mostly from the under side. Chisel might help if fitting edge is rounded.

> once it's out I'll have a 4 foot section out with male connection to my left and right.
> It's my understanding I can take those two connections and use the Fernco fittings
> on each end with the PVC in between.

Correct.

> My other concern is the weight of that pipe... it runs along the basement wall, exposed,
> about 4 feet off the floor.
> There are two cement blocks in the run that stick out from the wall for support which
> I'm OK with... what worries me is the right side where the pipe turns up and goes up to
> the kitchen and bathroom upstairs.

You didn't say where the blocks are.
But it sound fine unless the fitting that you want to remove is resting on the pipe.

Picture will help a lot.
 
 

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