regulator valve


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Old 09-08-06, 10:25 AM
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regulator valve

I got a water pressure tester from the plumbing supply store-Smith Jones.
I am planning on gluing cpvc so wanted to know the pressure so I can put pressure on a newly glued fitting after about two hours. When I screwed it onto the bib it read 95 lbs. I want about 60.
I have pressure regulator just after my shutoff and I did not know which way to turn it to decrease pressure but I tried turning clockwise. I did this in 1/2 turns as I checked the guage. Nothing happend after 4 full turns so I ran water + did it again -still no change = 95 lbs. I put it on my neighbors and = 95 lbs. I put it on my daughters in the next town = 95 lbs.
The regulator is old(I'm new here) + I got the guage about a year ago. I reset the regulator as it was originally.
Any tips on how long to wait for cemented cpvc under this pressure and any ideas about the regulator and the tester? Thanx a lot.
 
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Old 09-08-06, 11:58 AM
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I don't know how long to wait after you cement the CVPC, but I do know I would use copper plumbing. You will just have to bite the bullet and replace the regulator. They cost about $35 at my local Lowes. (I just installed one at my Dad's house last night, as the old one wasn't working and the pressure at the laundry bib was 170#. It is now 65#. Too high pressure puts washing machine hoses at risk of bursting and causing your T&P valve on your water heater to pop off.
 
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Old 09-08-06, 12:31 PM
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Can you borrow another pressure gauge from someone, to verify that your gauge is reading accurately? All three being 95, even after you adjusted, sounds suspicious.
 
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Old 09-08-06, 12:52 PM
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pressure

That's what my next step is-I don't know anyone so I'll have to buy one. I'll let you know
Two questions:
1-if the pressure is normal, how long to wait after cementing cpvc before turning water on?
2- which way do you turn the pressure regulator valve to decease the pressure?
Thanx
 
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Old 09-08-06, 12:54 PM
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pressure

Originally Posted by thiggy
I don't know how long to wait after you cement the CVPC, but I do know I would use copper plumbing. You will just have to bite the bullet and replace the regulator. They cost about $35 at my local Lowes. (I just installed one at my Dad's house last night, as the old one wasn't working and the pressure at the laundry bib was 170#. It is now 65#. Too high pressure puts washing machine hoses at risk of bursting and causing your T&P valve on your water heater to pop off.
Can't use copper here as pinholes develope due to the nature of the water.
 
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Old 09-09-06, 09:51 PM
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To lower the pressure from your PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) you need to first loosen the locknut and then turn the screw or bolt COUNTERclockwise. You need to be sure that your portable pressure guage is connected downstream of your PRV. If you are connecting it to an outside hose bibb it may be measuring the pressure BEFORE the PRV as sometimes the outside hose bibbs are connected that way.

I suggest that you connect your guage to the washing machine connection or maybe to the drain valve on your water heater.

After adjusting your PRV to the correct pressure besure to tighten the locknut.


As for the cpvc cementing issue, read the label on the can of cement, it will tell you the minimum wait time and minimum temperature for use.
 
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Old 09-10-06, 04:34 AM
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pressure

I was really waiting for this timely information and do appreciate it. I'll let you know the results.
Thank you.
 
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Old 09-10-06, 08:38 AM
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pressure

Originally Posted by furd
To lower the pressure from your PRV (Pressure Regulating Valve) you need to first loosen the locknut and then turn the screw or bolt COUNTERclockwise. You need to be sure that your portable pressure guage is connected downstream of your PRV. If you are connecting it to an outside hose bibb it may be measuring the pressure BEFORE the PRV as sometimes the outside hose bibbs are connected that way.

I suggest that you connect your guage to the washing machine connection or maybe to the drain valve on your water heater.

After adjusting your PRV to the correct pressure besure to tighten the locknut.


As for the cpvc cementing issue, read the label on the can of cement, it will tell you the minimum wait time and minimum temperature for use.
>>I put the portable guage on the water tank and by turning the reulator counter clockwise the flow to my faucets slowed with each turn(so the regulator is working) and the guage dropped also to as low as 20 lbs BUT as soon as I turned off the faucet-keeping the regulator on the low setting-, the guage jumped back to 95 lbs.
 
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Old 09-10-06, 03:57 PM
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Then your PRV is leaking through. You may be able to rebuild the existing PRV but I suggest that you replace it with a new one.
 
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Old 09-11-06, 07:07 AM
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pressure

Originally Posted by furd
Then your PRV is leaking through. You may be able to rebuild the existing PRV but I suggest that you replace it with a new one.
>>Sorry to be a pest but I think I gave you the wrong idea or I'm just not getting it. When I turn the prv counterclockwise with the faucet on I see the flow reduced even if I shut it on + off. When I go clock wise the opposite happens. This seems to say the prv is doing its job. BUT, when I have the portable guage on a bib and do the above the reading drops while the faucet is open but when the faucet is closed it goes up to 95. The faucet is still low while the guage reads 95. Seems like the guage doesn't hold when the faucet goes on then off + on again. I noticed that the glass fills with water sometimes.
I'm going to get a new guage but I did not want to mislead you and do thank you for all your help. I hope this helps to clear things up a bit but if you still feel the prv is leaking please let me know.
 
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Old 09-11-06, 08:58 PM
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Peter, you may wish to explore this link to understand how the pressure reducing valve works.

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_wprv.asp

(You need to scroll down about 1/3 of the page)

What I think is happening in your case is the PRV does not completely seal off the incoming water when the pressure rises above the setting you have made on the valve adjustment. When the flow of water stops (no faucets in the house running) the incoming water pressure is leaking past the defective valve and causing the entire house plumbing to become the same as the incoming presure. When water is flowing (a faucet open) the valve will appear to be functioning properly. The fix is to either rebuild the valve (specifically the "seat" and "disc") or replace the entire valve unit. Since the valve needs to be disassembled to do the rebuild and it is under significant spring pressure, it can be dangerous to disassemble if you are not aware of the possible consequences.


As for your pressure gauge getting water under the glass...yes, you would be best to replace it.
 
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Old 09-12-06, 04:41 AM
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pressure

Originally Posted by furd
Peter, you may wish to explore this link to understand how the pressure reducing valve works.

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_wprv.asp

(You need to scroll down about 1/3 of the page)

What I think is happening in your case is the PRV does not completely seal off the incoming water when the pressure rises above the setting you have made on the valve adjustment. When the flow of water stops (no faucets in the house running) the incoming water pressure is leaking past the defective valve and causing the entire house plumbing to become the same as the incoming presure. When water is flowing (a faucet open) the valve will appear to be functioning properly. The fix is to either rebuild the valve (specifically the "seat" and "disc") or replace the entire valve unit. Since the valve needs to be disassembled to do the rebuild and it is under significant spring pressure, it can be dangerous to disassemble if you are not aware of the possible consequences.


As for your pressure gauge getting water under the glass...yes, you would be best to replace it.
>>Thank you for the referral-may I persue this a bit further? When I turn on the washing machine and decrease the pressure at the prv, I see the water flow decrease-when I shut the machine off it stops -when I turn it back on, the same reduced flow appears--SO w/o the guage involved, the flow can be reduced with the prv even with the faucet or machine being turned on + off and it holds at the reduced pressure. I am going to get a new guage to verify the findings and I will be sure to get back to you with the results B/C you all have spent more than enough time on my little issue. Thank you for your patience.
 
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Old 09-12-06, 12:30 PM
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pressure

Originally Posted by furd
Peter, you may wish to explore this link to understand how the pressure reducing valve works.

http://www.watts.com/pro/divisions/watersafety_flowcontrol/learnabout/learnabout_wprv.asp

(You need to scroll down about 1/3 of the page)

What I think is happening in your case is the PRV does not completely seal off the incoming water when the pressure rises above the setting you have made on the valve adjustment. When the flow of water stops (no faucets in the house running) the incoming water pressure is leaking past the defective valve and causing the entire house plumbing to become the same as the incoming presure. When water is flowing (a faucet open) the valve will appear to be functioning properly. The fix is to either rebuild the valve (specifically the "seat" and "disc") or replace the entire valve unit. Since the valve needs to be disassembled to do the rebuild and it is under significant spring pressure, it can be dangerous to disassemble if you are not aware of the possible consequences.


As for your pressure gauge getting water under the glass...yes, you would be best to replace it.
>>You are an astute technician-I tried a second valve and got the same reading. I have turned the prv so the kitchen faucet, which has the lowest pressure, is just at performance pressure. Any more turns and it does not work sufficiently. I created a second problem in that I tried to use the water tank as I did yesterday but when I turned the valve by hand the water did not go into the portable guage but seemed to leak behind the 'handle'. I don't know if this is a defect or needs adjustment but there is no leak when hand tight. The tank is 6 months old.
Dagwood Bumstead is signing of while all is working and thanx you again for your sup[port.
 
 

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