automatic vent device questions

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Old 01-07-07, 06:57 PM
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automatic vent device questions

i have talked to two plumbers in my area, both are licensed in the city limits...they both told me they would use an automatic vent device in my situation...

my situation: my kitchen drain is pathetic...i have old black iron drain pipes...i have had the laundry area drain replaced (vent and drain) when we had a water leak and had to replace a lot of subfloor, so it was easy to access the wall and drain/vent...however, in my kithcen, the drain runs into the wall, to the left about 2 feet (where it connects to the vent), and then down into the crawlspace, etc...when i replaced the laundry vent and drain, the drain itself was so corroded inside that i had about a 1/2 inch path for water to run down inside the 2 inch pipe...so, i am assuming that is my problem with the kitchen...i have had roto rooter out a few times over the past few years, but it still drains slow...

now...i don't want to rip out my kitchen cabinets to access the drain line and vent in the wall, so both plumbers said in that situation, we will use a mechanical vent in the kitchen cabinet...he said code allows this and it must be 6 inches above the trap...i don't have a problem there, i can exceed that i am sure after looking at...

my question involves what kind of vent device...when i go to my local home center, there are two to choose from...a studor vent device (about 28 bucks) and a small black vent in a plastic bag (about 5-10 bucks)...what is the difference in the two vents and which one should i use???

also, if both licensed plumbers said that is what they would do if they fixed the problem, should i call the local code man and inquire???

i am in the state of alabama, so if anyone knows codes for that state, then it might help to know...

thanks...michael
 
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Old 01-09-07, 04:50 AM
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Michael, use the Studor type valve and you will be just fine. These guys won't jeopardize their licenses giving bad advice over such a matter. I am not familiar with the longevity of any device with a bag on it. The Studor allows air in to balance the system, but keeps gasses from backing up on you.
 
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Old 01-09-07, 04:04 PM
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In my old house, we re-piped with Studor type vents under kitchen and bath vanity. Great drain and no smell. Short money (the $28) for what you get it to do.
 
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Old 01-10-07, 12:35 AM
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If there happens to be an existing vent, it may be worth tying into; it's likely to be in much better shape than the drain. No harm in looking at it.
 
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Old 01-10-07, 05:25 AM
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existing vent

i would rather tie into the existing vent about 2 feet away, but it is in the wall behind the kitchen cabinets...i have an old rancher...the kitchen cabinets are on an exterior wall...i don't want to tear up the whole kitchen...money doesn't allow for that kind of repair...plus, our vinyl flooring is less than 2 years old...don't want to damage that...it costs of $1000 just for the material...so ripping out the cabinet to access the vent is not an option...

what i plan on doing is leaving the vent in place...leave it connected in the crawlspace so i don't have to cap it off...i will just cap off the drain stub in the kitchen...will it still act as a vent with the studor valve in place???
 
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Old 01-11-07, 11:02 PM
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The vent equalizes air pressure on both sides of a p-trap. Leaving the vent in the wall w/ the drain plugged won't really vent anything, but won't hurt anything.

If it were my house, I'd open the back of the cabinet (carefully, so I could put it back) and catch the vent from there w/o removing the cabinet. I'm not that crazy about studor vents, although I am coming around to PEX.
 
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