Cutting copper pipe


  #1  
Old 02-17-07, 10:17 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 493
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Cutting copper pipe

I have a 1/2 inch copper pipe that I want to cut off and re-route the problem is it is boxed on 2 sides by framing. There is 1/8th of an inch of a gap behind and on one side of this pipe.

I can't get a sawzall on it or a hack saw or a tube cutter. Is there some tool I don't have??

thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 02-18-07, 05:00 AM
H
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: New York
Posts: 657
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Even if you found some type of tool to cut it, how are you going to clean it up and sweat together a new run?
 
  #3  
Old 02-18-07, 07:56 AM
nap's Avatar
nap
nap is offline
New Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: north
Posts: 3,821
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
I can get it cut but as hank queried, how ya going to sweat in a new fitting?

an abrasive wire hacksaw blade will get it cut (without the hacksaw frame). (if you are patient enough, you could even use twine and a paste of carborundum (valve lapping compound available at auto parts stores) to do it)


due to the close proximity to the wall, it would be extremely difficult to sweat the pipes. (it can be done but if great care is not employed, it could result in you being in a new house so I will not expand on it anymore than that)
 
  #4  
Old 02-18-07, 11:14 AM
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: usa
Posts: 839
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
re-route

Some clarification is needed, but he mentioned the piping was going to be rerouted afterwards. I read it to mean that once cut, the copper lines will be run in a new location, and hopefully more accessible...
 
  #5  
Old 02-18-07, 11:42 AM
nap's Avatar
nap
nap is offline
New Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: north
Posts: 3,821
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
I presume he will still need to attach to at one pipe within the tight area. I understand he intends on rerouting it from there but you have to start somewhere.

If anything else, he could abandon the entire run and cut it in a more accessible location if he did not need to attach within the tight area.
 
  #6  
Old 02-18-07, 01:20 PM
DaVeBoy's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,565
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I have sweated pipes that are nearly pinned and have bent a piece of thick sheetmetal to slip around between the pipe and wall or floor, and have either a hose hooked up, buckets of water and a fire extinguisher right next to me..or 2 out of 3 of these. And in cases where I won't permanently wreck anything, I may even spritz on water in the whole area first, including behind the sheetmetal.

Oh. And I should edit to say this: Some people do not realize this, and this could be the reason for crawl space and mobile home pipe thaw fires is when people use a torch and when close to the pipe, the force of the flame coming out of the torch can actually make the flame creep up the pipe by 2-3 inches. Be aware of this!
 
  #7  
Old 02-18-07, 01:26 PM
DaVeBoy's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,565
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
............................
 

Last edited by DaVeBoy; 02-18-07 at 01:27 PM. Reason: Duplicate post due to phone call
  #8  
Old 02-18-07, 11:44 PM
C
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Calgary, Canada
Posts: 493
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I was planning on going ahead and sweating it right next to the wood - probably using some of the method mentioned on here.

It seems like none of this is very easy. Maybe I will try to rethink my plan around that pipe!
 
  #9  
Old 02-19-07, 03:42 PM
DaVeBoy's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,565
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Someone got the plumbing IN there...right? And plumbing is done with the wood framing already in place, usually. But think smart...and safe. (I read on a thread earlier where someone sugested one of the fire retardant blankets that are designed for shieldoing when when doing the torch work, and you might want to invest in one of these also.

Also make sure the work area is free of cobwebs and wood powder so that sparks are not created that can updraft into the chase! I have already stuffed fiberglass insulation, above the work area, into chase areas where I detect an updraft in the wall to stop this.


Such mental excercises are good sometimes as you can learn things for other similar situations.
 
  #10  
Old 02-19-07, 06:51 PM
Who's Avatar
Who
Who is offline
Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: San Jose
Posts: 2,066
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 1 Post
Cut beyond where it is tight against the wall... and on both sides if need be. Reconnect these spots laters with couplings. I would only cut where I can cut cleanly.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: