Replacing tub/shower faucet


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Old 03-05-07, 01:11 PM
C
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Replacing tub/shower faucet

I want to replace the tub/shower faucet I currently have with a new cartridge type. I have a three handle faucet and saw that Moen makes a three handle version which is the cartridge type. I have an access panel behind the tub wall which is about 2 1/2 feet high. I have complete access to the water supply lines (copper, which go through the floor) and the top of the access opening is about 6 inches about the connection into the valve for the shower pipe.

I assume the best way to replace the faucet is to cut the copper pipe just above (or below in the case of the supply lines) where it is currently sweated into the old valve. I am a bit concerned that there access opening is only exposing about 6 inches of the shower pipe so what precautions should I take to make sure the torch flame doesn't cause a fire near the wood studs/drywall. I was thinking about placing a small piece of roofing flashing I have near the area where the coupling fitting will be soldered and have a spray bottle with water handy.

I have sweated copper before be it was always where the piping was exposed such as my utility room. Thanks.
 
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Old 03-05-07, 01:20 PM
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Use a cloth-type heat shield. It's handy for fitting into tight spaces. You should be able to find one at any plumbing supply (big boxes included) for about $15.

Good luck,
Tom
 
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Old 03-06-07, 05:27 AM
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I bought the new tub/shower faucet. It seems that the mixing valve has an FTP for the outlet to the shower pipe and one for the tub spigot. I assume I will need an MTP/sweat union. Should I screw on this union to the mixing valve using teflon tape or should I screw it in and then solder it? I believe the old mixing valve was soldered in.
 

Last edited by cwirth; 03-06-07 at 07:08 AM.
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Old 03-06-07, 06:45 AM
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Should I screw on this union to the mixing valve using tefon tape or should I screw it in and then solder it?
I'm just a DIYer. Maybe some of the actual plumbers have a better answer, but I screwed mine in for the exact reason that I had a problem I chronicled in another thread here.

I figured if I soldered the valve and it leaked, with my level of skill, I probably just ruined the valve. By screwing in a having a small leak, I was able to save the valve buy cutting the copper further back, unscrewing, cleaning everything, re-applying the teflon, screwing it back on and then re-soldering the pipe.

Good luck!
Tom
 
 

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