Not A Plumber


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Old 03-15-07, 06:09 PM
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Not A Plumber

Hi all, I'm new and I like what I see this is a decent little forum you guys and girls have here. Well on to my question I am not a plumber and I have a cracked copper pipe. It is only a short piece and I think I can cob it but if its an easy fix then I'd rather do it the right way. The location is kinda crappy, its a tight fit for any tools and very close to fiber glass. I don't want to catch it on fire. Also is there a place where I can buy a heating unit for a water heater. I have a 2 burner tank and hate to buy a whole new tank for one burnt out burner. Hopefully the pic downloads ok. Ok I'm guessing there is no way to download a pic? Swizzle
 
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Old 03-15-07, 06:14 PM
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Post pics in an online photo site (like Photobucket) and link from here, swizzle. Should be plumbing folks along to answer the questions.
 
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Old 03-15-07, 06:30 PM
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Not A Plumber

I tried photobucket. Doesn't seem to work. Swizzle

 
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Old 03-15-07, 06:51 PM
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It almost looks like a tootsie roll!

Well, you have to cut it all out. Anything near where it looks swedged out. And you have to get rid of the couplings next to it. You have to get back to good pipe. You then have to test and see if you can slide a coupling over the pipe, after you sand around the pipe with emory cloth. If you can't, then you have to cut out even MORE pipe to get away from what puffed out.

They sell like these asbestos filled (or whatever) fire retardant blankets you can buy to protect while you sweat solder.

When you do, you have to also make sure all water is drained back out of the line. Push down on each end of the pipes to make sure no more comes out. It also helps to have at least one end of the pipe open somehow at some valve so the hot gases have a place to relieve the expansion to.

If neither the pipe to the left can't move left, and/or the pipe on the right can't move to the right...then to make the repair by sectioning in new copper pipe, you need to buy two repair couplings that do not have 'stops' inside of them. To complete the repair, you cut the pipe to fit between the sectioned out area. Then sand the pipe ends. Then wire brush down in the repair couplings. Then flux all of these. Then slip the repair couplings onto your new replacement piece of pipe, then put the new pipe in position, then slide the repair couplings halfway over each joint, then solder. Use leadfree flux and lead free.solder. As soon as it cools down, you can use the system.
 
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Old 03-15-07, 08:00 PM
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>

If you are referring to the elements of a hot water heater yes these are available but you must replace them with the appropriate wattage and design.

Some bolt in with four bolts others screw in like a large bolt etc.Also elements come in a variety of wattages.This will be on the element itself near the mounting end or also likely somewhere on the heater on an infomation label.

Best thing to do is remove the bad element and take it to a hardware store where the help can assist you in replacing it with the proper unit.

Note that the screw in elements are easier to remove with a large special socket wrench made for the purpose.

Also you're going to have to turn off the power and drain the tank at least part way to do this job.Again any qualified help at a hardware store or plumbing supply house (that sells to the public) can help you with instruction as well as parts.
 
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Old 03-15-07, 08:10 PM
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swizzle, your photobucket link works okay, sorry I wasn't more clear. Once you post the link viewers have to copy and paste the link to see it as html links are not active in the forums (ongoing discussion on that).
 
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Old 03-16-07, 04:07 AM
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If it is the bottom element that is gone you should check to see if the sediment has built up in the tank to the point of covering the element.
This is very common on tanks that are not flushed regularly.

If the bottom is filled with sediment up to the element opening you can make a scoop out of a piece of tin that will fit through the opening with a hook on the end.

Because of my well water I have to clean mine annually or I will loose the bottom element.
I use a piece of tubing that just fits into the opening that is taped to my wet/dry shop vac to quickly suck out the debris.
 
 

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