utility sink drain to washer drain


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Old 05-16-07, 09:30 PM
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utility sink drain to washer drain

Current washer drain is a 2", ptrap with riser all external. Bottom of P-trap is just an inch or so off the garage floor.

Can I Tee just above the ptrap fitting to 1 1/2" and run to my sink without a p-trap on sink? How long of a run can this be?

I am in Contra Costa County, CA

Thanks,Adrian
 
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Old 05-17-07, 05:17 AM
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Are you suppose to? No. Every fixture is suppose to have it's own trap. Will it work? Yes. You might get the occasionaly slight back-up of water in your utility sink while the washer is draining though. Just keep that in mind. (Shouldn't be enough to overflow utility sink).

In my opinion this is one of those really minor code infractions and it won't hurt anything. It will function ok. But technically it is wrong

And as far as how far can you run..the normal answer on 1.5" is 5', but since your not putting a trap on the utility sink and your tying in above the washer trap....it rally doesn't matter. You don't have to worry about water being syphoned out of a trap. So run as far as you want.
 
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Old 05-17-07, 10:56 AM
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Thanks CSG. So what is the proper way to do this? It is really my only choice, the only other option are:

1) ptrap at sink but it still needs to drain into external washer hookup.
2) opposite side of wall is a tub but only the vent is acessible, hookup to vent (i have a feeling this is the worst option)?

If option 1 was a better setup could I raise the ptrap for the washer and put the T for the sink below the ptrap, would that still be considered having back to back ptrap's?

Thanks.
 
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Old 05-17-07, 06:46 PM
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Here is a pic of what i am working with. Trying to figure out the correct way to drain the sink (will be on far right). Nothing is glued yet in this setup.

This is the setup I explained above except with a Ptrap at the sink.





Can you not show inline pictures in this forum? Do I have it off somehow?

http://ascc.com/ebay/sinkdrain.jpg
 
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Old 05-17-07, 06:55 PM
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Here is a pic of what i am working with. Trying to figure out the correct way to drain the sink (will be on far right). Nothing is glued yet in this setup.

This is the setup I explained above except with a Ptrap at the sink.


Link to pic: http://ascc.com/ebay/sinkdrain.jpg
 
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Old 05-17-07, 11:56 PM
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Ok..what i would do is leave the washer alone...put it back the way it was. Above the T to the washer P-Trap..cut in another T that runs over to your sink (code in Florida and the International is 5' on a 1.5" line, not sure what your local code states.) That would be the best and most proper way of doing it and you wouldn't have to worry about the washer draining over the San-T going to your sink. If you have to run more then 5' generally inspectors in my area will let me fudge it up to 6' on a utility sink.

I'm speaking by the book here.

Now if you want to throw the book out the window....you can keep the T where it is..remove the P-Trap at your utility sink and just hook it up directly(cause the P-Trap at the washer is all u will need...no need for 2nd.)

Those are the 2 options i would go with.
 
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Old 05-18-07, 04:27 PM
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Thanks again.

I am not sure why I was not thinking this way before but, could I replace the cleanout fitting on the 4" with a cleanout on one side and 1.5" oposite (do they make that?) and then just drain into the 4" for the utility sink.
 
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Old 05-18-07, 08:27 PM
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Hehe....no they do not make a fitting like that. Follow my instructions above..those are the only 2 plausible options without me knowing more.


Here is the issue with what your thinking with the 4". Clean-outs are 2 ways so you can snake up and down. The only thing you could replace that with is a cross then bushing the right side down to 1.5". Problem with that is on the cleanout side is you'll only be able to snake down...not up. Honestly you would never snake up anyways from there...but that isn't the point. The second thing that would be wrong is you would then have to add a vent at the sink cause i'm assuming there is stuff on the floor above draining into that 4". I'm gonna guesss it is also your main vent. Now you'll have to add another vent at the utility sink if you tie into it.

If nothing is draining into the 4" from above...then you could just cut a 4x2 san T into it and run to the sink...putting a trap under the sink and be fine with no extra vents. i would leve the clean-out as is though.

If you think you'll have trouble getting to the 2" in the middle let me know. I can tell ya how to cut that without tearing everything up.
 
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Old 05-18-07, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CSG View Post
If you think you'll have trouble getting to the 2" in the middle let me know. I can tell ya how to cut that without tearing everything up.
Defintely any tips or tricks would be great!

I was thinking to lower the standpipe ptrap to its lowest postion possible (i believe that is 6" from ground to top of trap). Then put in the T for the Util sink (1.5") and above the T for bathroom sink (1.5"). It looks like i have some room to raise the ptrap in the bathroom sink if needed.

Are "street" T fittings made?

Thanks bigtime!
 
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Old 05-18-07, 11:53 PM
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Duh..i didn't even see the lav..kind of hard to pinpoint in the picture .

Yeah...if you can lower the washer T and fit the Utility sink T in between the Lav T and the washer T that would work fine...no vent required at that point...it will share the one already there. Just put a P-Trap at the utility sink.

As for street T's...heh....do they make em? Yeah...are they very rare? yeah. Good luck finding one..have to special order it im sure if you even do and not sure they make em smaller then 3". What would be great to use would be 2" Sanitary Tee with 2" left side inlet which would be ideal..but i don't think they make em. I think 3" is the smallest they make.

Just make sure wherever that washer P-Trap is...you don't make the standpipe out of it any longer then 48" or you'll cause syphon issues with the water in the trap.
 
 

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