Leaky Ball Valve
#1
05-30-07, 07:03 PM
Leaky Ball Valve
Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and this is my first post...
So I replumbed the supply lines to my washing machine, was originally 1/2" copper with hose bibs(previous owner sheared off the handle and cracked a fitting). I replaced with new rigid copper and a new washing machine supply valve from Menard's. I also got the bright idea to add two 1/2" sweat ball valves (one for hot and one for cold) before the washing machine hookups. I used a propane torch and oatey flux and solder, plenty of both.
to make a long story short, none of my joints leak but one of the ball valve bodies is weaping/leaking from the valve stem, not the sweated joint. Did I just buy a bad valve? there is a nut attaching the handle but its not a standard inch or metric size, should I just tighten with an adjustable wrench?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
So I replumbed the supply lines to my washing machine, was originally 1/2" copper with hose bibs(previous owner sheared off the handle and cracked a fitting). I replaced with new rigid copper and a new washing machine supply valve from Menard's. I also got the bright idea to add two 1/2" sweat ball valves (one for hot and one for cold) before the washing machine hookups. I used a propane torch and oatey flux and solder, plenty of both.
to make a long story short, none of my joints leak but one of the ball valve bodies is weaping/leaking from the valve stem, not the sweated joint. Did I just buy a bad valve? there is a nut attaching the handle but its not a standard inch or metric size, should I just tighten with an adjustable wrench?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
#3
05-31-07, 02:38 AM
To further express what he just said, yes, grab a pair of adjustable pliers and tighten the nut on top you see just a tad. If it doesn't turn..it coud just be a bad valve. Some of those ball valve (1/4 turn) types are great but their not very repairable.
