please help - toilet flange questions


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Old 08-27-07, 08:13 PM
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please help - toilet flange questions

hi all

i'm in the middle of doing some renovations that included a complete gut and re-build of the existing bathroom. i contracted out the plumbing work, and i have a couple of questions about the toilet (closet?) flange that the plumber installed.

first, he installed the waste pipes, flange, etc AFTER i had removed the bathroom subfloor (the subfloor was still removed when he called for the rough inspection, which passed). when i replaced the subfloor, i just cut out a square to fit around the flange. this was before i knew that it should be screwed to the subfloor. is there a way around this (i.e. can the flange be replaced with one that has an extra-wide rim)?

second, the plumber left about 3/8" between the subfloor and bottom of the flange. i had planned on installing a 3/8" plywood underlayment, ditra, then tile. do i just build up the flooring AROUND the flange, and then just use some kind of extender to bridge the height gap? or do i replace the flange first so it sits higher, and then install the underlayment, ditra, tile so it goes UNDER the flange rim?

i'm still trying to get on the same page with this guy; there's been a coupla miscommunication issues 'cause i don't know much about plumbing.

just thought...how how the flanges normally connected to the waste pipe? i probably should have just removed it prior to installing the subfloor so i could've made a circular - not square - cutout, but it seemed to be pretty well attached. are they usually glued in place, or are they meant to be disassembled?

thanks for any help
 
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Old 08-27-07, 08:42 PM
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Are you sure the flange is glued to the drain pipe? Your plumber may have left it loose so you could remove it when you installed your floor. When the final plumbing is done, all PVC joints are glued so they won't leak. The flange does have to be screwed to the floor though. You can build up around your flange but don't put more than a tile height over your flange(subfloor under your flange and the tile on top of the subfloor). To make up for the difference in height, you can buy a larger wax seal(thicker) to make up the difference. The local hardware store should sell a small seal and a big seal. One is just thicker than the other.

Whatever you do, make sure the toilet flange is screwed down to something or you will have problems installing and using your toilet.
 
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Old 08-28-07, 07:05 AM
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hi adam, thanks for the reply

this is a simple question...but if the flange WASN'T glued, would it come up easily, or is it a friction fit too? i tried to remove it, and it didn't come loose, but i didn't want to risk applying too much pressure.
 
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Old 08-28-07, 12:38 PM
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if the flange wasn't glued it should come up relatively easily. you should be able to get it to spin on the pipe at least. if this new work was pressure tested for an inspection, it would have had to been glued down though. what i'd do is piece the subfloor in below the flange. if you cut a square of your subfloor that will go from joist to joist, on each side of the flange, by about 18" and then cut a 4" hole in it for the toilet drain you can cut that piece in half through the center of the hole you drilled and slip one part in from the back and one from the front. that will get you some floor under the flange and then you'll just have to kind of "tile" in the subfloor around it. hope that makes sense.
 
 

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