Low water pressure in kitchen only


  #1  
Old 09-11-07, 07:26 AM
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Low water pressure in kitchen only

I've experienced a dramatic loss of water pressure to my kitchen sink since we remodeled the kitchen last year. I live in a one-story house with a well, and pump is in the crawl space. Pressure to the bathroom, laundry room and outdoor faucets is fine. But in the kitchen, both hot and cold lines are lower. The ice maker water lines even froze at one point because of too low pressure. I had adequate pressure (or it seemed) before the remodel. Under the sink, I have a hot water shutoff valve with two outlets, one 3/8" for the sink supply and one 3/8" for the dishwasher, and a cold water valve with two outlets, one 3/8" for the sink and one 1/4" for the ice maker. We have copper plumbing, faucet is new, and has a single handle that controls water flow. The pump does not kick on when no water is running, so I'm assuming no leak in the supply line. The kitchen sink is farthest from the well pump, with the bathroom being closest, followed by the laundry room. The water heater and water softener are in the laundry room. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Brian
 
  #2  
Old 09-11-07, 10:03 AM
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I suspect that what you are calling a loss of pressure is really a loss of flow.

It is unusual that it is happening with both the hot and cold but not impossible. When you did the remodeling did you change any of the piping?

If it only affected the faucet and not the icemaker (how about the dishwasher?) I would say it is dirt in the faucet aerator.

What brand and model (type) of faucet do you have? I recently was plagued with low flow from my kitchen faucet (a Moen with the pull-out spout) and I discovered a screen in the flexible hose where it connects to the hand-held spout/sprayer. That screen was about one-half occluded with dirt and by cleaning the screen I was able to re-establish full flow.

How are the shut-off valves under the sink attached to the copper piping? If they are screwed on or use compression fittings then you could turn off the water, relieve the pressure, remove the shut-off valve (one at a time) and using a hose that would slip over the end of the piping have a second person turn the water back on (while the first person is holding the hose into a bucket) to test the flow all the way to the shut-off valve.

I suspect that the blockage will be in the shut-off valves themselves.
 
 

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