Iron toilet drain, no flange, 1 bolt disintgrated, other rusted on?


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Old 03-06-08, 07:39 PM
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Iron toilet drain, no flange, 1 bolt disintgrated, other rusted on?

I removed my toilet and the concrete around it. I found one of the bolts has just turned to dust, the other one is rusted on. I believe the drain is cast iron or something else (it's black?). As you can see in the picture the one on the right is gone, and the hole expanded to the edge and now it's just a cutout.

The second picture is my upstairs neighbors toilet pipe for reference. I just don't know what I'm suppose to do to connect the new toilet.

1. From what I've been reading, there is suppose to be a flange that the bolts go into? There is no flange here, the bolts just go directly into the rim of the pipe. How do I get bolts back onto the drain?

2. Is there a flange I can get to go over the drain?

3. If I have to remove this section of pipe, how do I remove it from the stack? I'm guessing keep turning this thing counterclockwise...but I don't have a wrench that big
...From my experience with the other pipes, I know it'll be rusted.

4. If I can get it out, I'd like to replace it with cpvc, how do I connect it to the iron pipe. You can see in the second picture there's some kind of ring, not sure what it does yet.

5. Any other tips or suggestions would be great. If I do have to remove this section, I'll be extending it 2 inches because right now my rough-in is 10".



 
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Old 03-07-08, 09:15 AM
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Man - O - Man.. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes right now......

You've got a cast iron DWV system and it's rusted out badly (obviously). To do it "right"..... and assuming the elbow /piping under the toilet flange (rotted as it is) is good... you should snap cut the drain line just prior to where it joins the main stack (the horizontal pipe prior to the vertical pipe... and fernco fit PVC to the Cast Iron at that point. Run a PVC elbow upwards and attach a new flange to that for your toilet installation.

Keep in mind - there are as many opinions as there are plumbers..... and there is more than one way to skin a cat..... I'm just informing you of how I would do it if it were my nightmare.

You can rent a snap cutter for a few bucks..... and buy the fittings for less than $30 at any big box store......
 
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Old 03-07-08, 09:36 AM
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Do they have snap cutters at big box stores too? Can I use a recip with a metal cutting blade? As you can see from my second picture, there is a doughnut ring, do I cut it past the doughnut ring right by the vertical pipe or on the other side toward the flange area?

You say this is a nightmare and I agree...is snap cutting going to be hard to do? I know you mention there are options, but is the replacement of that pipe a must do? Thanks.

Originally Posted by thezster
Man - O - Man.. I'm glad I'm not in your shoes right now......

You've got a cast iron DWV system and it's rusted out badly (obviously). To do it "right"..... and assuming the elbow /piping under the toilet flange (rotted as it is) is good... you should snap cut the drain line just prior to where it joins the main stack (the horizontal pipe prior to the vertical pipe... and fernco fit PVC to the Cast Iron at that point. Run a PVC elbow upwards and attach a new flange to that for your toilet installation.

Keep in mind - there are as many opinions as there are plumbers..... and there is more than one way to skin a cat..... I'm just informing you of how I would do it if it were my nightmare.

You can rent a snap cutter for a few bucks..... and buy the fittings for less than $30 at any big box store......
 
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Old 03-08-08, 04:08 AM
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You dont have any bolt holes flange left but it is apparent you have some flange. They make a stainless steel repair kit for establishing the bolt holes and it bolts on under the existing flange. I recently purchased one but the kit required me to remove my tile to use so I went in a different direction. The kit was about 12 bucks and consisted of 2 stainless steel round plates that bolt back together under the existing flange and comes with 2 brass bolts to rebolt the toilet back down with.
However in your case you have removed the concrete and have a major fix going anyway and also have basement access to the pipes. I would suggest as in your case like the others .. replace the flange and pipe with pvc and adapters.
 
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Old 03-08-08, 03:32 PM
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I've cut iron pipe with a recip saw - works okay.....

You will want to cut the pipe about halfway between the existing elbow and the doughnut to the main stack, leaving enough "meat" for a fernco (basically a rubber sleeve that clamps onto the existing pipe and the new PVC pipe with large hose clamps)to fit onto it.

A snap cutter is not a cheap piece of equipment - hence renting is better than buying usually.
 
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Old 03-08-08, 05:45 PM
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I would use a zipcut on the section of old pipe, as a snap cutter could cause the pipe to splinter, and crack the full length, IMO. plus, the zip cut would give you a cleaner edge to put the coupling on. Just a thought.
 
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Old 03-08-08, 05:54 PM
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I don't have access to the basement, I'm on the second floor condo. I could snap it, but I've gone a different direction. I need to build up the height of the floor anyway, so I'm putting a replacement flange over this one. I'm either going to chisel and pry off the cast iron one, or treat it as part of the pipe. The replacement has rubber seals that expand out as you turn 3 screws, I got it at HD.

Another option would have been to remove the flange and put a new cast iron one on. That would require sealing it to the pipe with oakum and lead. It seems best to hire an experience old school plumber to do that right.

Just putting this out there in case it may help someone else in the future. Thanks everyone.
 
 

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