2 simple pinhole leak questions (copper vs SS and nylon vs. PE)


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Old 05-06-08, 02:54 AM
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2 simple pinhole leak questions (copper vs SS and nylon vs. PE)

Hello, all:

I have 2 pinhole leaks (approx 1 drip per minute, in a pressurized system).

Long story short, I have a Fleck 5600SE water softener installed with a (1) threaded stainless-steel bypass valve and (2) nylon-to-polyethylene 3/4" drain line.

Both the aforementioned connections drip slowly but regularly, and I'm hoping someone can post an agreeable fix for each:

1) copper threaded pipe to SS bypass valve -- unfortunately I did NOT put teflon tape on THEN dope, as I've now learned is suggested -- it's a 1" male copper connector slathered in pipe dope and threaded into the SS bypass valve beyond comprehensible torque. Do I just run a bead of plumber's epoxy around the fitting (it can't be unscrewed anyway, without cutting off the offending fitting)? Better ideas? With a slow drip, will epoxy still set given water backing up behind it (I have both Harvey's plumber's epoxy stick and 30-minute Marine epoxy syringe)?

2) looking for good advice on linking up a (white) nylon 90 degree elbow to 3/4" (black) PE pipe (drain line) -- a little teflon tape and a hose clamp still allow a slow drip, as the drain is under a good amount of pressure...
 
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Old 05-06-08, 04:00 AM
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Good Morning

Yes, you could epoxy the leak but you will never get it apart after that. I would recommend removing the fitting and putting teflon tape AND pipe dope then re tighten. DO NOT re-solder anything to that fitting after installed. If you need to solder some pipe or a fitting, do so before reinstalling the fitting if possible. If not possible Keep a cold wet rag on the threaded end of the fitting while soldering to draw the heat away from the threaded end.


As far as the poly pipe and fitting are concerned, I usually put 2 SS clamps opposite of each other,(the clamp screws facing opposite directions), so they tighten a little better.

Hope this helps, Mark
 
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Old 05-06-08, 10:11 PM
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Thanks for the feedback, Mark -- your opposing SS clamps advice worked GREAT!

Unfortunately, for the threaded copper pipe-to-bypass valve connection, there's no way to unhook everything without "unsweating" at least one fitting (already did this once, and did NOT enjoy it ). So, any advice on what to use to stop the pinhole leak, given that I'm dead-set on fixing it this way, and that the area will be a little "wet?" I have a plumbing epoxy stick (Harvey's), is that sufficient? Should I remove as much of the dope as I can (it's the non-drying kind -- gray and sticky) before epoxying?
 
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Old 05-06-08, 11:22 PM
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Good morning

I'm glad the clamp method worked. I do it all the time now.(habit)

As far as the epoxy is concerned, Yes, I would clean as much as possible and don't forget to shut off the water and drain off the pressure first.
Don't forget that Harveys Hardens like steel, you can drill and tap it after it hardens, so like I said before, you will never be able to take it apart at that connection.
I just want you to think about it one more time before doing it.

Well, that should solve the problem.
Good luck, Mark
 
 

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