Shower/Tub drain in bathroom remodel


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Old 05-18-08, 08:22 AM
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Shower/Tub drain in bathroom remodel

I am in the process of remodeling the main bathroom in the house. I have taken down the walls to the studs. I have an old cast iron tub that I plan to leave in (too heavy to remove) and have re-glazed professionally. Looking for some advice and solutions on the plumbing issues.

The tub has a pop-up style drain that I would like to replace with a similar style pop up drain. I have removed the overflow coverplate, the lever would rotate, and raise/lower the stopper. I have not attempted to removed the stopper (yet) for fear that once removed I will not be able to get it back in place.

1. Are there compatible replacements that can be installed without disassembling the drain tube and overflow?

The tub drains into a drum trap and then is connected to the main stack using galvanized pipe. The run is about 10 feet to the main stack. I am attaching photos of the drain run and drum trap.

2. Is it okay to leave the drum trap in place? (realizing answers to this question may make my first question moot)

3. If I remove the drum trap? What do I replace it with and can I just run pipe following the old path to the main stack? Thanks in advance for your help.






 
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Old 05-24-08, 06:07 AM
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1. What brand is the W/O assembly? If Price Fister then contact them, of what are brand it might be, contact the maufracture they will know for sure. It might come down to total replacement.

2. Sure you can leave it, but I'd replace it myself, ever need to clean it out can be a mess, with it replaced the line can be cleaned out a lot eaiser and cleaner.

3. Use a glue style p-trap, should be easy to replace.
 
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Old 05-24-08, 07:00 AM
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Good Morning

Well, let's start with GALVANIZED pipe is NOT your friend !

Definitely replace the pipe with PVC or ABS pipe.

As far as the trap is concerned, Drum traps are against code but can be replaced if chosen. You can change it to a regular P-trap, but from the pictures you showed, I do not see a vent,(creating an s-trap condition which is also against todays code), so unless you can add a vent, which is in your best interest, I would keep the drum trap style. Get rid of the Galvanized one and get a PVC one. If you could, add a air intermittance valve (studor vent),someplace in the drain line and use a p-trap. This would be the best way to go.

And finally, for the tub drain, they sell just the cover plate for the overflow and the grid screen for the drain. If the rest of the brass drain seems ok you would not need to change that. If you do need to change the whole assembly, my favorite is a Gerber 41-510 W&O assembly. I have used them for over 20 years.

But trust me on the galvanized pipe issue, you probably only have about a 1/2" hole going through the horizontal part of that drain, the rest is plugged with build-up.
 
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Old 05-24-08, 10:27 PM
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No vent

plumbingods,

You are correct there is no vent, except the main stack, and there is no place to put a new vent.

How far above the dvw line does an air admittance valve have to be placed?

All the fixtures in the bathroom were crane, including tub drain. I have not been able to locate any replacement parts for crane fixtures. The brass is fine, but a screen w/ overflow cover would then require some other stopper mechanism for taking baths.
 
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Old 05-25-08, 04:19 AM
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The vent only has to go a few inches above the horizontal drain before you drop to the stack, but I like them to be above the flood level of the fixture if possible. You should be able to put a Y in line just before the trap and come up in the wall where the tub drain and valve is at a 45*.
Then straighten it out, go up about a foot and put the vent.

The tub drain is not usually tub specific, so you should be able to use just about any brand you want. In NH the Gerber brand is the biggest seller to the common plumber.
If your existing W&O has a up/down type lever you can probably just replace the outer pieces if the linkage for the stopper is OK. It usually attaches from the cover plate to the linkage with a cotter pin usually supplied with the new cover plate.
If that doesn't work for you you it would be best to replace the whole drain assembly.
 
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Old 05-27-08, 05:18 PM
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Air Admittance Valve w/ P trap

I located an Oatey AAV w/ a ptrap at HD. Does this company make a good product?
 
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Old 05-27-08, 06:03 PM
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I have used a lot of oatey products over the years an seem to be OK.
 
 

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