Thought I had successfully replaced old cast iron drainage pipes in basement of my cabin with PVC pipe and fittings. (I was so pleased with myself- ha!) Also replaced the old toilet with low consumption model. Finished job before Fall close-up but only tested for leaks. Discovered only recently when I filled tank that toilet doesn't flush properly. (no "whoosh"- Water slowly drains from bowl) I now realize that I'm lacking proper venting. I duplicated the old set-up (no stack, no mechanical vent- worked with old toilet, sure doesn't cut it now). Hope there's a solution short of installing a stack and through-the-roof vent.
From my reading online, simplest solution, in principle, would be a mechanical vent such as a Studor, but I can’t figure out whether this is practical. The Studor Mini-Vent is designed to be attached to a 1 ½ or 2" pipe. I read in an online article that “it can handle an entire bathroom” - but how would I attach it to a 4" pipe? There’s also the Studor Maxi-Vent which does fit 4" pipe, but I can’t make out whether it could be adapted to my situation. I spent most of last summer hanging out with the proverbial bear in the woods. Would really like to use a toilet this year! If any of you folks could suggest a solution to my problem, I would be most grateful. (BTW, remote, isolated cabin. Unconventional solution that doesn't conform to code would be quite OK)

dr_bit (Frank)

 

You don't need a 4" studor vent. The normal 1 1/2 - 2" studor vent you find will suffice. What you will want to do is install a 4 x 2 combination in the line that the toilet is on (I am assuming you turned up 4" for your toilet with a 4x3 toilet flange?).

If you don't have a 4 x 2 available, you can buy either a 4 x 3 combination with a 3 x 2 bushing or a 4 x 4 combination and a 4 x 2 bushing.

The combination should be installed with the 2" portion straight up if possible. Then the studor vent will just go on top of that. If the distance between the pipe and the floor don't allow you to everything in place, you can lay the 2" portion over 45 degrees but use other fittings to insure that the studor vent stands straight up. The only other caveat is to make sure the studor vent is clear of any insulation.

Hope this helps,
Joel

 

Hi Joel,

Just got back into town today and saw your post. Thanks so much for your quick and detailed reply. Looks like I'm saved!
You said I should "install a 4 x 2 combination in the line that the toilet is on". There's about a 3 ft. length of 4" pipe connected to the flange that drops straight down, then joins up with the horizontal drainage pipe like so:
. .
. .
. .
. .
. .
. ...X...........................
.
....................................
It would be easiest to insert the 4x2 at the point marked by the "X"; Would that be an OK placement for the mini-Studor?

Shortly after I'd cemented the pipes, a handyman who was helping me with another job saw what I'd done and told me that I'd have been better off if I'd run the pipe from the flange at an angle, rather than having the "load" drop straight down into the 90-degree elbow. Being lazy, I'd rather not redo the flange and drainage pipe connected to it, but I noticed at the plumbing parts store that there is a 4x2 connector with the 2" piece at a 45 degree angle to the 4. So I could redo the pipes like this, with the 4x2 combination at "XX":

....ooo....
.....ooo....
......ooo.....
.......ooo.....
........oooXX
..........ooo....
...........oooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
.............ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
(The 2" piece would end up in an upright position)
As far as the placement of the Studor goes, would this work better?

Thanks again for taking the trouble to help me.

Best,
Frank

 

You are looking way to far into this.

Do you have a sink in the bathroom? and is it connected to the drain within 10' of the toilet?
If so all you need to do is put the mechanical vent under the sink as diagrammed in the installation instruction of the studor vent. Simple install...
http://www.studor.com/products/redi-...iSpecSheet.pdf

If you need more help, just ask.

 

Hi Mark,

Thanks for your input. There is a sink, but since the sewer pipe drains to a holding tank which has to be suctioned out from time to time (at a cost of $150) I decided to allow the gray water from the sink to drain directly into the ground. Thus, sink is not connected to the drainage pipes. Perhaps I should connect the sink so that it goes to the sewer,and then I could follow your suggestion for placement of the Studor. But given that I don't have a soil stack, to what do I connect the drain pipe? Can I connect it to the 4" horizontal drainage pipe the connects to the sewer pipe? (As you can see, I'm a real newbie, though I do want to learn.)
-Frank

 

Yes, you can connect to the horizontal drain pipe with a 4"x1 1/2" WYE fitting. Not a TY. Or a 4"x2" WYE and a 2"x 1 1/2" reducing bushing, then use your 1 1/2" after that to the sink.

If you do not want to tie the sink into the line, Get a 4"x2" TY, and put the longest 2" pipe you can up from the 4" horizontal drain pipe, then put the Studor vent as high as possible, but at least 4" above drain as spec'd by Studor vents.


The 2" and 1 1/2" Studor vent is the same vent. It comes with adapters for either size. Use the 2" if possible.

 

Thanks again, Mike. Have been without internet connection (in fact, without electricity) for the past 2 weeks- just saw your post.
Just wanted to have you clarify 2 points, if you would be so kind.
1) The "TY" connector you referred to is "T" shaped, yes? (as shown here: http://www.pexsupply.com/categories....D=475&brandid=. I have located a 4x4x2 of this type.
2) I'm not clear what counts as the location of "drain" on a toilet. Would it be roughly where the toilet connects to the flange, or higher? Hope these Qs don't sound too dumb.
Thanks,
Frank